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April 3rd, 2015, 21:50 | #16 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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Okay i put the above parts in. With the stock spring and motor for now. I have the gate nanoAAB fet in.
the gun shoots however it will dbl shoot in semi sometimes and if its stoped mid cycle it strugles to get going. Does this mean i need a slower tourqier motor, or is something else wrong? Im sure ths shiming is good lil less than .5mm play max, piston is moderately swissed, no bearing in piston head, 3 teeth shaved (including the alrdy missing tooth on the lonex piston) liston lightly shaven in the back to clear the tight gearboX, the air seal is sweet on this thing as well.
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FinchFieldAirsoft Last edited by Hectic; April 3rd, 2015 at 22:17.. |
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April 3rd, 2015, 23:40 | #17 |
formerly steyr
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Seeing how shims come in .1, .15 and .2 mm sizes, .5mm is a lot of play. I'm assuming you mean .05mm? The stock motor you have has nowhere near enough torque for this build. Also, when you get a motor with stronger magnets, it will have more stopping power to prevent the double shooting, especially with the AB mosfet.
Since it's a DMR, you actually want a heavier piston assembly. It helps with consistency. On a 420-440 fps spring pre engagement shouldn't be an issue, especially with an AB mosfet. If you get a high TPA motor, ie 22+, your ROF will be low enough that you likely wouldn't see it anyway. |
April 4th, 2015, 10:26 | #18 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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Yeah i only removed about 15% or so of the piston. Didnt skeletonize it just drilled some holes in it. Mainly to save wear n tear on the gearbox not so much for speed. I figured the motor was the issue all runs smooth but still gets hot lol. The magnets in the stock vfc motor have got to be the weakest i have seen. A magnetic screwdriver will pull screws off that are stuck to the motor lol
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FinchFieldAirsoft |
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