Magpul PRS stock battery modification

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by Reaver_RRTS

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=151840
I think it's this one.

Wrong stock.

The G&P SR25 PRS stock tube is different than the one that comes with the PRS stock. It allows the fitment of longer stick lipos. That stock adapter is available for sale individually. OP should use that.

[Reaver_RRTS]

I know it's the wrong stock, but the idea is what I was interested in, and the idea was what he was sharing. I'll keep planning my modifications, any further advice or ideas would be helpful

[Reaver_RRTS]

I have an idea regarding the PRS stock - Can the cheek rest be completely removed? If so, what is directly to the front of it, towards the rifle itself, within that gap where the cheek rest was?

[ThunderCactus]

I said it was in the PTW thread! This should answer most of your questions.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showpos...&postcount=505

You could fit a brick style lipo under the cheek rest but a few problems arise;
1) the cheek rest will have to be really high, which I only raise it about 2mm to get proper cheek weld so you'll need wicked scope risers
2) you need to remove a significant amount of buffer tube material weakening the stock greatly
3) not even close to being anywhere near water proof
4) I have no idea how you'd get the battery in and out, putting a 1300/1400mah lipo stick in the buffer tube is your best bet. And they might have longer tube lipos that fit now, check hobbyking under 'airsoft batteries'. anything 18x18 or smaller will fit just fine, these are what I use;
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...SOFT_Pack.html

[Reaver_RRTS]

Ah perfect! And sorry i read the wrong thread lmao. My idea was to machine a slot VERTICALLY in front of the cheek rest, so basically you'd slide the battery down into the slot plug in the connectors at the top from the buffer tube and then install the cheek rest. That way it would be a smaller section being cut (the battery would sit with the widest side facing the butt plate. I'd just need to know what size battery i could use. The slot would only have to be big enough to allow the battery to be slid down into the opening, no more, so depending on battery size, the hole should not be too big a problem on the stock integrity

[ThunderCactus]

The cheek rest only comes about about half an inch so I'm not sure if you'd even be able to fit a stick battery down there. I don't see it working unless you take the stock off the buffer tube to remove the battery or just tuck the wires under the cheek rest and charge it inside the buffer tube.

[Reaver_RRTS]

I'll make a picture and show you lol it's hard to describe what i have in mind.

[ThunderCactus]

I know exactly what you mean, you can't take the cheek rest off with the buffer tube in place, you can only move it up and down.
And any kind of slot in the top of the buffer tube will prevent you from being able to safely use the gun in the rain.

[Reaver_RRTS]

Dont have a tumblr account or whatever hopefully you can access the link but basically this is what i had in mind (i'm at work so i don't have access to my 3D software so don't be hatin' on my 5 minute photo shop job its just to get the idea across...)

Oh i see, so the cheek rest uses the buffer tube to stabilize it as it raises and lowers... damn it...

[ThunderCactus]

oh lol
you don't have room for a stick LiPo in there, not the width, nor the length. It's only about 10mm between material on the inside. I explored just about every idea I could when I did my mod, and for an AEG, really your only choice is to put the wires under the cheek rest or hook it in from the back by removing the stock every time, but the battery HAS to be in the buffer tube.
I had to run the wires underneath the tube to save space, but with an AEG (you only have the two wires anyway) you can just run them right into the tube from the mechbox side, and it works out better since your mosfet will be on the mechbox side if you choose to run one, and you HAVE to access the battery from the buffer tube cap at the back.
Whereas on the PTW I have the mosfet at the back and battery on the mechbox side.

[Reaver_RRTS]

Hmm.. well saves me time and money I guess. Oh well. It'll do. Thanks ThunderCactus. Although, is a MOSFET really necessary? I don't think my F2000 has one installed...

EDIT: how long does your battery last? About how many shots do you think you could get out of it before needing a charge or switch? And do I HAVE to use a lipo battery? What about the really thin stick batteries? Won't those work?

[ThunderCactus]

its not 'necessary' but it's extremely highly recommended if you're using anything smaller than a 1800mah battery and especially if you're using an 11.1v

as far as how long my battery lasts, a general rule of thumb is 1 BB/mah but it changes SO much and there are so many variables it's really impossible to give any sort of estimate.
My AEG got around 1200 rounds from a 1400mah lipo mostly semi auto
my PTW gets around 1.4bb/mah all semi-auto
and my 249 gets around 7BB/mah all full auto but it's specifically tuned to be maintain full auto very efficiently
You *could* run a 9.6v nimh stick, it probably fits in the stock tube, but a 7.4 lipo will last longer, much longer, and especially if you have a mosfet.

[Reaver_RRTS]

Okay and now I have to research what a MOSFET is (keep seeing the term but never looked into it or how it works) and where to buy one/how much it is/how to install...

[venture]

OK, you lengthen the wires connecting the two groups of cells. Then you adjust the cheek rest on the PRS stock to fully up.You fish out the connector and plug in the battery. You slide one group of cells into the stock then the other. Adjust cheek rest to where you want it and you are good to go.

[SuperHog]

Have you ever consider front wire your SR25 and run a tiny PEQ box and carry second PEQ box for quick change. This way you won't have to chop your PRS and can run what ever Lipo you want.

An MOSFET is a good thing to consider. I have MOSFET on all my guns.