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April 8th, 2013, 14:22 | #16 | |
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hmmm..... It's not really the hammer that's sitting high. If your sear is in good shape that hammer should be fine and should be sitting as it should. If it was you hammer, you should see all kinds of scratch marks on the actual hammer as evidence of the friction created when the slide glides over it. Juudging from your photos, it i'd say that it's something else. I think the problem is your hammer bearing. THAT is the only part that sticks out and it is what is catching to your BBU. This happens because the actual hammer bearing is broken. As a result it spins freely and wildly. THis would be the first thing to inspect, in my book. This is how a broken one looks like: There should be a corner where the bearing interacts with the hammer. In the pictures above, there isn't. As a result, you can see the "pointy" top part sticking out. THat's the part the catches the BBU. in regards to the clicking sound, that's normal operation. That's how your gun switches between the full auto setting and semi. That part you pointed out is a secondary sear to control this functionality. You can't release the hammer if the hammer is fully cock (when you press the hammer all the way down) because that secondary sear is stopping it. It's normal. Trust me. That part needs to be in the "first click" stage of the hammer in order for you to takedown the gun. otherwise it will stick out and prevent you from removing the slide. It's sorta like a see-saw.
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 8th, 2013, 15:40 | #17 |
Thanks for your answer e-Luder
The photo I posted with the arrow is actually not mine; Got it from the web because it was already pointing the part I needed to :P Here's a few photos of my gun, with some comments: https://www.box.com/s/knvbp9evrxobrrx7jhul You probably can add comments to them too if need be; I'm not sure if I can say the hammer or "bearing" is broken as it looks pretty much like the photos I've seen around :/ Would just changing the hammer completely solve the problem?
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Last edited by MultipleParadox; April 8th, 2013 at 15:55.. |
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April 8th, 2013, 16:09 | #18 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Might be a lube issue, might be a weak spring issue
With the very limited amount of pistols I've actually worked on, I've seen both the above problems in glocks lol |
April 8th, 2013, 17:26 | #19 | |
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yeah... The photos you posted definitely suggests that either sear hooks or the hammer has bitten the dust. The hammer should sit flush with hammer housing. At this point, I suggest you take your hammer housing apart and inspect your BOTH the sears and hammer. I think it may be how your top sear is interacting with the hammer. if your top sear is no longer able to hook the hammer, it will produce the symptoms your describing. Same with the bottom sear but you'll have to top sear to keep the hammer from springing up. I thought that the hammer bearing was broken because of the previous picture you posted. lol. Sorry about that. It's hard to say if a new hammer will fix your problem. You may have invest in buying a whole new sear as well depending on its status. I would first inspect it. And then go from there. I need to see how the top sear is interacting with your hammer to make a decision. I have a Marui G18c hammer and both sears here if you want. But i don't have a new bearing for you. You'll have to use the one you have installed.... Again, I don't have the gun in front of me so i don't exactly know how useful my information is. lol.
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 8th, 2013, 17:49 | #20 |
Thanks for your quick answer
Ok I'll disassemble it when I get a chance; Now, pardon my newbness on the matter, but I'm not sure which part is the top/bottom sear :P Trying to figure out which is which but can't wrap my head around it; I'd appreciate it if you would kindly point it to me; Diagram here: http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/pdf/p_p...1023154301.pdf About how useful is your information without the gun, I'd say it really really is useful to me :P Again, million thanks |
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April 8th, 2013, 18:00 | #21 | |
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Holy crap!? I've been looking for this stupid manual since time!!!!!1 The top sear is this thing in your diagram. the part that the arrow is pointing at. Part 18c-60 in the parts diagram. The bottom sear you can't see but it's part 18c-57 in the diagram. Make sure the hooks not worn...or worse...brokruuuuuu...
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 8th, 2013, 18:02 | #22 |
sorry. I'm at work right now. I'll take proper pics when I get home tonight for you...
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 8th, 2013, 18:04 | #23 |
Glad I could at least help you with something!
The parts # will be enough, don't bother taking pics unless you really want to :P Thanks (I feel like I'll be saying "thanks" more than needed but, to hell with with, thanks! :P lol) |
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April 8th, 2013, 18:49 | #24 | |
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So it can just be that. But to me, the hammer bearing does seem like it's sticking out a bit much than usual. mine looks like this:
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 20th, 2013, 15:40 | #25 |
Thanks for your help!
Update: I just disassembled the hammer assembly to inspect the hammer and sear as you suggested; Lo and behold, hammer split apart in two pieces! So I guess it's clear I need to replace that part; Any recommendation? Looks like Gunsmodify zero hammer might be a good choice; But I heard it was also "causing" weaker blowback? And the way that parts came off of the housing, I couldn'T get a real good hold on how this was all setup so I might need little help in reassembling it when I get the replacement parts. If anyone has a good video about that it'd be nice; On a side note, the spring in the selector switch in the nozzle return spring were messed up, and the bearing in the selector switch was missing as well. I got a replacement for the return spring already, but couldn't find a replacement for the selector switch spring and bearing... Where could I find these? Photos with comments: https://www.box.com/s/knvbp9evrxobrrx7jhul |
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April 20th, 2013, 18:30 | #26 | |
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How'd the previous owner manage that? lol. That's some kinda break. I've never seen that before. lol. Usually, it's the firing pin or the hammer bearing that breaks, not the actual hammer.... The Gunsmodify hammer is....ok. I tend not use it, to be honest. Every time I bought either the G17 or the G18c hammers from them, I ended up having to modify a great deal for them to function efficiently. Sometimes, they won't even let the stock firing pin retract. lol. In regards to the blowback, it's a hit and miss. In order for you to achieve the perfect blowback with that hammer, you have to make sure that all your seals are tight AND your firing pin has to be the right length AND your hammer spring produces a good strike. THis is because GunsModify has changed the engaged point of the firing pin and hammer. As a result, the firing pin can't move far enough to let enough out of the magazine. But to look on the bright side, a weak blowback can preserve the front screw casing a bit longer. There won't be enough force to shred it. It's sorta like short stroking the gun inadvertantly. The downside is you may lose the slide catch's functionality. As I stated, I usually stay away from this hammer set. I use these together: http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...20&catid=&cat= http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...20&catid=&cat= along with an Shooter's design full auto sear to handle the material of the steel hammer. It's a bit pricey, but I never touch the hammer assembly ever again after I fit and get things going with the KM set. I do have a spare G18c hammer set here if you want. I may also have that nub thing and the spring for the selector switch. I just have to look for it. It's here somewhere.... In regards to the reassembly, here's a crappy video to help you a bit. Tokyo Marui Glock 18c Hammer re-assembly - YouTube It's not the best but the proper steps/order order of installation are there. Hope that helps somehow....
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 20th, 2013, 18:35 | #27 |
That's wonderful info! Thanks again
Too bad I went ahead of myself and ordered a zero hammer none the less :/ That'll show me not to wait for advice I guess... Will try to have that order cancelled as it was placed just an hour ago or so... hopefully they won't make a fuss... How's WGC in terms of shipping time and all?
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Last edited by MultipleParadox; April 20th, 2013 at 18:39.. |
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April 20th, 2013, 18:43 | #28 | |
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WGC is ok... They take a bit longer to package things than most retailers overseas. but then again, my orders are usually pretty big to begin with. lots of small pieces to sift through in their inventory. depending on the shipping you pick, it's usually pretty quick from their door to yours...
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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April 20th, 2013, 19:16 | #29 |
Well, I just bit the bullet and ordered these KM parts along with the SD sear
While I was browsing WGC, I came accross spring replacement set that includes the selector spring/bearing, so I took that too Hopefully I won't have any issues; expensive indeed! If I'm a bit lucky previous owner will help me out a bit on this, as his gun was advertised as fully working, not with a broken hammer... we'll see what he says In the meantime, million thanks for your help! |
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May 1st, 2013, 21:53 | #30 |
Got my parts today!
3 hours later (that's now minus 1h), got a fully functional g18 1 thing though; the new hammer "bearing" (the triangularishly shape that pivots back and forth) catches a bit on the BBU when racking the slide; It makes it a bit hard to manually rack the slide but doesn't seem to prevent the slide cycling normally otherwise; I guess either the bbu housing or the "bearing" thing, or both, will eventually wear out a bit and it'll be smooth again, but is it something I should let happen? |
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