Is a 11.1 volt 25c lipo too strong?

[lurkingknight]

wouldn't fulll auto draw less amps than semi... keeping momentum going is a lot easier than trying to overcome resistance from a dead stop.

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

wouldn't fulll auto draw less amps than semi... keeping momentum going is a lot easier than trying to overcome resistance from a dead stop.

Same as my understanding as well. Semi heats up the motor nice and quick. IIRC guys on ASM were saying that it takes nearly 3 to 4 times as much current on semi versus full auto.

Unfortunately the watt meter I picked up can't detect the initial draw required. All I have are numbers for continuous full auto 3-4 second draw.

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

wouldn't fulll auto draw less amps than semi... keeping momentum going is a lot easier than trying to overcome resistance from a dead stop.

very yes
firstly, active braking causes a LOT of heat buildup
and starting a motor takes way more energy than it does to keep it going

That's how I can manage a ridiculous 400mah/2000 rounds on my 249

[Moonschlagen]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

very yes
firstly, active braking causes a LOT of heat buildup
and starting a motor takes way more energy than it does to keep it going

That's how I can manage a ridiculous 400mah/2000 rounds on my 249

Sorry to be slightly off topic, but what is your reasoning behind running such a small capacity battery? Either way, that's a very good bb per mAh ratio!

[PrIeSt]

Lol. He means by running 2000 rounds he has only used 400mah off his lipo. That's not the size of his lipo

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Crossing my fingers - tomorrow. They're in Mississauga right now.

We had them before, but after Steve blew up a few of them we decided to pull them from the store and give Gate some feedback.

Guess what? They listened and the new ones are enroute. Tey're beefier versions designed to handle 11.1v Lipos and higher current draws.

Sweet i knew i seen you posting about them befor. Just the size of them was impressive seeing them next to a few bbs and they wer about that size (3bbs or so) im quite happy with the merf3.2 i got off of you and will definately be grabbing another to stick in my AK when it arrives. (ill probably even wire it in advanced mode seein as j wont have to open the gearbox to do it. Been tryin to figure out how to fit one in my mp5k but it seems ill have to swap from a 9.6 stick to an 8.4 to fit it not too sure i wanna do that.

[Moonschlagen]

Originally Posted by PrIeSt

Lol. He means by running 2000 rounds he has only used 400mah off his lipo. That's not the size of his lipo

Ahh I figured I missed something. It makes sense now that I've re-read the post.

[MaciekA]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

it's hard to find that thread on airsoft mechanics with all the testing they did
I'm sure your crazy ass guns are drawing 35A lol
But guns like my 249 that are specifically built for maintaining full auto draw significantly less current since it's built to lessen the load on the motor. But yeah it depends heavily on the setup, spring gears shimming motor etc.
But to give you a reference point, PTW's usually draw around 20A. That's why the ROF goes up quite a bit when you go from the old firefox 12C (13A cont) to a real LiPo that supplies the 20A it needs lol

The crazy-assedness of my guns is overblown, I gotta play field limits just like everyone else

Stealth is lending me his measuring device tonight (I've got my own on order soon) so I'm hoping we can release some interesting data for everyone to look at.

[bug519]

So will a 400fps gun (vfc scar with stock red motor) cause issues with a 15c lipo (11.1 1100mah)?

[lurkingknight]

the vfc scar's electrical system is a topic of much debate. The way it was designed to have no wires from the battery compartment to the point it gets into the gearbox creates a lot of electrical resistance. Wiring a mosfet in is a challenge because of this.

That said, a 15c 11.1v 1100mah lipo probably won't make it shit the bed. You're losing some current in all the transfer points.

[bug519]

Ok thanks. I have a merf 3.2 just in the stock with the lipo. Seems like it trips the fuse every once in a while and was wondering if that was why.

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

the vfc scar's electrical system is a topic of much debate. The way it was designed to have no wires from the battery compartment to the point it gets into the gearbox creates a lot of electrical resistance. Wiring a mosfet in is a challenge because of this.

That said, a 15c 11.1v 1100mah lipo probably won't make it shit the bed. You're losing some current in all the transfer points.

[ThunderCactus]

I was going to say, I wouldn't run it without a mosfet lol
However the reason it's tripping the fuse is because the FUSE is overloading, not necessarily the battery.
So your batt can handle 16.5A, but maybe it's only a 12 or 15A resettable fuse?
Either way, it's a good warning sign.
Is your grip getting REALLY hot after 20 fast shots of semi auto? If so, you should seriously consider getting your mechbox reshimmed, or a new motor.

I had to get something beefier than a triggermaster for my 249 because it kept blowing the fuse with G&P motors (M120 and M140, both professionally tuned). I switched to an EF1300 and it drew WAY less amperage, also has way better performance when hot.

[KarlR]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Crossing my fingers - tomorrow. They're in Mississauga right now.

We had them before, but after Steve blew up a few of them we decided to pull them from the store and give Gate some feedback.

Guess what? They listened and the new ones are enroute. They're beefier versions designed to handle 11.1v Lipos and higher current draws.

You are talking about the smaller versions, not the MERF 3.2 right? I've been looking at buying a MERF 3.2, do they heat up much? I do like how they can limit the rate of fire in full auto, I am curoius how do they achieve that cut to the rate of fire ?

Do they internally limit the current flowing though the motor? Or do they simply cycle the system on and off based on a delay timer? Limiting current sounds dumb to me, so that's probably not it. Timer sounds logical.

I really want the 11.1 volt for the trigger response, not nessciarly the fire rate. How dose the smart trigger factor into full auto, is the first shot as snappy as semi and then tapers off?

[ThunderCactus]

first shot is 100%, the rest are reduced
It has to be cycled, pretty sure it would melt if it resisted 30% of my current lol

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by bug519

Ok thanks. I have a merf 3.2 just in the stock with the lipo. Seems like it trips the fuse every once in a while and was wondering if that was why.

What voltage of a Lipo are you using? Do you have the correct battery selected in the menu? See linked video for instructions. I'm pulling 25-33A on my MERF (advanced wired) and have yet to trip the fuse. It's rated at 50A continuous for 3 minutes and is the most robust of Gate's offerings.

Originally Posted by KarlR

You are talking about the smaller versions, not the MERF 3.2 right? I've been looking at buying a MERF 3.2, do they heat up much? I do like how they can limit the rate of fire in full auto, I am curoius how do they achieve that cut to the rate of fire ?

Do they internally limit the current flowing though the motor? Or do they simply cycle the system on and off based on a delay timer? Limiting current sounds dumb to me, so that's probably not it. Timer sounds logical.

I really want the 11.1 volt for the trigger response, not nessciarly the fire rate. How dose the smart trigger factor into full auto, is the first shot as snappy as semi and then tapers off?

Just as Thunder says - 100% on Semi. Full auto is reduced.

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

first shot is 100%, the rest are reduced
It has to be cycled, pretty sure it would melt if it resisted 30% of my current lol

Check out this video: Gate MERF 3.2 Installation and Programming Video - YouTube

Start at 4:15, and end at 4:30.
Start again at 6:45 and end at 7:18