Suggestions for additional 25-30fps?

[Kos-Mos]

The nice thing is that once it's done, you will have a reliable AEG for a good 5+ years.

You can change the nozzle, but you then will need to shave off the tip. ICS M4 nozzles are about 1mm shorter due to different hop-up design than regular "TM standard". It is easy to do though, take your time and a file, not a grinder/dremell or a cutter knife.

Then if you want to play indoors, you can order a complete upper mechbox and set it for sub-350 velocity. If you think about it, most people have at least 2 guns or have the spring changed twice a year (I do a lot of swapping for people)

[Rabbit]

New Upgrades installed:

Modify Poly Piston Head
Modify v2 bearing spring guide

I wont be able to chrono it until the next game on Sunday so hopefully there will be a bit of an increase.

Ive noticed my cylinder head is very worn down, everything seems really flat and worn so i'll probably end up getting the Modify aluminum v2 head.

Also if I am going to upgrade the cylinder - how do I know which one to buy? I know it has something to do with barrel length but the CXP is fairly short and I have a 229mm TB in it already.

The current cylinder I have upon further inspection has two ports on each side.

Would I just go for the 200mm-300mm one?

[THEMAKKER13]

Why would you change the cylinder if the barrel length is the same?

[m102404]

Just match the cylinder to one meant for a barrel that length.

The number of ports does not really matter. I.e. 4 slits vs. 2 ports vs. 1 port etc...

[VooDooPeteK]

as mentioned the number of ports do not matter as they are all in the same place and compression will start after the ports anyway.

Personally I put a type 0 in anything with a 363 or longer barrel so with yours being that short I would put a type 1 in it but again thats just me.

[iKliiu]

Swiss Cheesing the piston can also increase FPS.

[Rabbit]

I read the sticky post about cylinder matching barrel length and it just confused the shit out of me so I just stopped to be honest.

Since my barrel length is fairly small Im going with the 200mm-300mm one type 2. Hopefully i'll get some decent compression being all modify parts (piston head, cylinder head and cylinder)

[m102404]

Madmax can be a tad over specific sometimes...LOL

Basically...having a port in the cylinder allows the piston to go from rest (max spring compression) and build up speed before it reaches the non-ported section in the cylinder and starts to push air down the barrel.

Imagine that you have a full cylinder and a tiny short barrel (say 5cm). The piston will have barely moved before the BB is gone out the barrel....and the BB won't be going very fast. Now imagine the piston building up speed and then hitting the compression part...the BB still only has 5cm to go...but it'll be going much faster than before.

That's what the various ports are doing for you.

Depends on what spring power you're using too...

If you want to be sure you're under...just go with a Modify S90 spring. You'll be good.

[Kos-Mos]

An easier analogy would be a paper bag with some air blown into it.

If you close the end as good as you can, then put your hand against it and start pushing, air will just flow out by the cracks.

If you take a swing instead, the bag will blow, meaning too much energy is transferred to the paper and it breaks.

Same could be applied to AEGs... install a full (no port) cylinder into an MP5... the BB will just "flow" out of the barrel.

No use a type 2 (50% porting) cylinder and try again. You should hit a normal FPS range.

On anything past a M4 CQB-R, the difference is very minimal. But the more difference there is between the "lenght range" of the cylinder and the actual barrel, the more effect it will give. Too long cylinder will give lost and inconsitent FPS. Too short cylinder will give low FPS and erratic trajectory.

[Rabbit]

Wow. Appreciate you dumbing it down but it totally makes sense Kos & m102404.

I just ordered the type 2 modify cylinder and cylinder head, with everything else it should make for an interesting assembly.

I've read so much about lubricant in the compression systems, but I also read something about o-rings expanding if you dont use the right shit.

Is there anything I can grab from Canadian tire seeing how its just up the street from me or should I just order something online.

[m102404]

Look for Ultra Slick...white tube, black lid, black writing, orange label. It's a clear gel like lubricant (looks like clear vaseline-ish sort of)...it contains PTFE in suspension.

It's good for EVERYTHING. Greasing moving parts...lubing orings...greasing gears...etc...

You actually want a nice tight air-seal fit between the piston head oring and the cylinder wall.

You're going to ask about compression testing next....but that's enough spoon feeding...go do some searching for "compression test", "how to check compression", etc...

[coach]

Ultra slick multipurpose synthetic grease. Very similar to super lube.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

[Rabbit]

Alright Ultra Slick got it. I'll pick some up today.

m102: Im not a total jackass lol, I know about some compression tests, the only one I might find difficult is the nozzle to hop up one - i've read some people blow down the barrel while holding the entire setup - I dont know if I read that one correctly.

I think the next thing will be reading up on the proper amount of lube to use Im assuming it can't be anything more than a thin coating anyways.

This is actually the first time im doing my own mechbox work, before this it was paying a gundoc. So i've watched enough videos and read enough posts over the year I've been in airsoft but I always feel odd reading a post from 2006 about information - I always figure things have had to have changed or been improved.

Edit: Hahaha apologies.

[m102404]

You might have mixed up Kos-Mos and me...Kos-Mos is a nice guy. I'm the grumpy sarcastic one.