January 23rd, 2011, 01:46 | #16 |
Quick run-down.
ICS is great stock. If you want to upgrade/change stuff: Piston, piston head, cylinder head. Theses are the first thing you should change. Spring and spring guide. As long as you run the stock spring, the plastic guide will be fine. Then, tightbore, hop-up rubber. KEEP the stock hop-up system, it works just too good. Bushings if your version has nylon ones. And then, motor and gears (both are the same time, the ICS gears are known to break and the angle of the bevel is not the same as "TM" standard, so if you change just one, your gun will sound horrible). |
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January 23rd, 2011, 01:53 | #17 |
what about for the external upgrades? like the delta ring, I bought the dboys one, but it wont fit, the dboys delta ring is smaller than the ICS delta ring.
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January 23rd, 2011, 02:11 | #18 |
Getting one to fit sometimes will require modification using a dremil. Especially the ICS ones with the crane stock. Can be a real pain in the ass
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January 23rd, 2011, 02:39 | #19 |
I dont know if only ICS parts would fit in ICS models. I think the sling adapter wont fit on this type of gun. Fitting some other parts will be pain in the ass for an ICS M4.
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January 23rd, 2011, 02:47 | #20 |
a.k.a. flamethis
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I had to put my sling adapter on backwards since you can't replace the stock ICS plate.. looks odd but it works.
I'll be fitting an ASAP on it well asap...lol |
January 23rd, 2011, 02:49 | #21 |
There's no problem on it? Maybe I'll try that one.
what kind of adapter is that?
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January 23rd, 2011, 18:17 | #22 |
would-be wine thief
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Do what kosmos said... then...
if you have the infinity motor... unless you want to go to a M120 spring you can keep it if you want to go to M120 go with the turbo 3000 ics motor (sounds a bit loud but very sturdy unit and NO gear match problems. Dont mess with the hopup on an ICS it's probably one of the strongest features of this aeg ((need there be... just replace with stock ics parts)) The upper gearbox can use an internal blueprinting/polishing job (makes the unit operate smoother, cycle a bit faster and shoot about 15 fps faster I find the 11.1v lipo a bit agressive for the split gearbox design but bare in mind if you go that way you need to install a mosfet switch the secret to a reliable ICS is preparation and maintenance... not mods TM style M4 gearbox take a long time to dismentale and clean (thats why people dont do it) on the other and you can teardown/clean and reassemble an ICS upper gearbox in under 25 minutes. That gun is a charm to keep up and when properly maintained will give you a long trouble free service life Cheers Pete
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January 23rd, 2011, 18:58 | #24 |
I am running a 11.1V 15C 1500mah li-po on a stock ICS aeg... Unfortunately the piston last tooth came off... Since I can't play in the fields with a 400-450+ fps, I will go for the ROF.
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MAGDALO HATERS GONNA HATE Last edited by sundae_1021; January 25th, 2011 at 16:51.. |
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January 25th, 2011, 16:34 | #25 |
I chronied my ICS M4 stock it's only at average of 320FPS
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January 26th, 2011, 12:44 | #26 |
would-be wine thief
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Yeap... that is normal
Blueprint the upper gearbox and install a prometheus 6.03 363mm barrel. ((since they don't have the ICS groove in the barrel stabillize the up hop with a couple turns of 2-3mm wide electric tape))
That will take you to about 350-355 fps without any Modification related reliability issues and you get to keep that 1 bb per Ma average Cheers
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Level 3 Directory assistance operator Level 1 skapegoat It ain't the years, it's the miles. Last edited by Sportco; January 26th, 2011 at 12:46.. |
January 26th, 2011, 15:23 | #28 |
would-be wine thief
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here... thats blueprinting an ICS upper
It means making every part in something perfect size, finish, fit, to what the drawing (blueprint) says...
On a ICS M4 split gearbox!the two halves of the upper gearbox castings are a bit crude.. ruff Two problems 1) The ruff surface or the casting literally grinds the piston and the particules contaminate the whole gearbox (remember that sandpaper is grit glued to a sheet of paper... if you put the grit in grease... it's still sandpaper!!!) So by doing that you actually reduce piston, gear, seal and cylinder wear drasticaly plus you (IF you polish the whole gearbox) eliminate most stress risers (crack will developpe in those imperfections) think sheet of paper with a small tear in it, if you pull that is were it will fail (tear up) 2) that friction slows down mouvement (piston and nosle plate) makes it harder for the gears and motor.... plus slows down stroke ((smoother cycle = more FPS, faster ROF and less wear obviously)) PLUS your upper gearbox looks like a millions bucks ---------------------------------------------------------------------- So what you do is you disassemble your upper and you prep the piston guiding tracks ( clean the halves with a toothbrush and liquid dish detergeant in a warm bath) a) with a wet 600 paper and the proper tickness solid block you run the paper up and down the valley until all asperities are gone. (sharp corner too) Note: If the paper doesnt have solid (hard) backing) it will smooth the whole area WITH the bump still in it ((take has little of has you can)) if you cant feel it with your finger... it's not going to slow down anything much b) Using metal polish (I LOVE autosol) (on Q-Tips and/or shaped toilet paper) complete channel polishing c) do the area were the nosel plate grinds optional d) do the whole int/ext bit because now you've become obscessive compulsive e) when you regrease use synthetic teflon grease ((has little has necessary)) People put to much grease because they think if's better an end up gunking up the whole thing ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Every 50000 bb's (in clean none desert condition) crack the upper gearbox open, clean (dish liquid again) check piston condition remove o-ring (on piston head) and decontaminate o-ring (LDD again) plus a bit of rubbing with a coton cloth , replace if condition is altered Remember that sand will find it's way into a SCELLED gearbox so if you play in a sand box... guess what your doing that night!!! Check cylinder ((if it's brass) and you feel weard things (very... no extremely politely repolish the inside with autosol (metal polish) PS you can renew the exteror shine with brazo metal polish also reclean with LDD dry with clean coton rag, remove dust, regrease inside out and store in a ziplock bag until reinstallation If your cylinder is chrome or stainless it shouldnt have that much wear, if so use Autosol (metal polish) here too Beware that if you polish the cylinder to much at some point you will lose compression (( bare in mind that clean well lubricated o-ring and piston is the secret to minimal cylinder wear. Questions, comments... insults Cheers Pete
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January 26th, 2011, 15:28 | #29 | |
M.Garcia
M.Garcia M.Garcia |
No that's really informative! I just ordered my new spring and will have to do this. Are you aware of any videos for this? I don't mean to insult but something's I'm assure of as this is my first AEG and I have never opened it up after 8 months so I'm no gun doc.
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January 26th, 2011, 15:43 | #30 | |
would-be wine thief
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Yeap...
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Go on youtube and what these teardown videos YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Disassembly Guide by AirSplat (M4 disassembly) YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Gearbox Disassembly Guide by AirSplat (gearbox disassembly) Insert blueprinting procedure here ... lol YouTube - Airsoft ICS M4 Gearbox Assembly Guide by AirSplat (gearbox assembly) YouTube - Airsoft AEG ICS M4 Assembly Guide by AirSplat (M4 assembly)
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