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stock g&p m4 first upgrade ideas

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Old December 6th, 2012, 19:40   #16
FirestormX
 
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
I think the idea behind a wider barrel is that there's a cushion of air around the BB, so that it doesn't hit the barrel, thus destabilizing it.

Obviously it's very inefficient with the air though.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 19:58   #17
Trev140_0
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by generichandle View Post
Wait so a tightbore barrel doesn't increase accuracy? I would have thought having less room to bounce around would naturally increase accuracy. Which is my rationale for getting the bridge tensioner is it looks like it manages to force bb's through a more guided path, resulting in less room for discrepancies in flight dynamics and ultimately equating to better shot to shot consistency.
Or am I completely over analyzing this and actually don't understand at all?
Sigh.. I wish I had friends who played airsoft.


ALL theory and debated all over the god damn place.

Seems like this is still in its early stages as to fact finding.

I think you are going to see this on MythBusters before we find out the truth.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 19:58   #18
generichandle
 
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Not that I was even considering upgrading that...yet. But Which is more accurate then? Widebore tightbore or just normal Hahaha.. both conflicting concepts make sense... But where's the science!? I know one of you knows! Obviously there's a huge drop in fps using a widebore but approx what is that #?
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Old December 6th, 2012, 20:05   #19
Trev140_0
 
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Here is my 2 sense from a guy running a field and who has now seen hundreds of guns and watched the range of guys of the ones who are ALWAYS farting around to the ones who don’t touch it.

I have seen guys drive 45 minutes to our field, get out of car, and go to chrono and watch the gun fail. Get back in car and drive home.(or to the store to get parts)

DO NOT TOUCH YOUR GUN TILL YOU NEED TO

Change spring, close gun...move on.

I have seen guys go from stock, to crazy hopped up and back to stock in like 6 games.

Use the gun for a period of time and scope around, ask others etc. But to just go at in my opinion is not a good plan.

Wait for the problem to come to you. That’s if one even exists.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 20:16   #20
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And this G&P you see here is still running the stock barrel and seen a shit load of hours. The wear on the reviever is not camera flash or man made fake wear. Its real hours. Let her ride.....change spring, and fill it up with some good synthetic grease.

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Old December 6th, 2012, 21:15   #21
generichandle
 
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If you see my original post I never really wanted to change the barrel that's something others brought up that doesn't concern me in the slightest. I appreciate the guidance though, if you don't mind me asking what alterations have had to been made to your g&p internally speaking.. what's failed, what's still kicking?
Where should I grease?

Last edited by generichandle; December 6th, 2012 at 21:18..
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Old December 6th, 2012, 21:20   #22
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Ok! now we are talking!!!1

Drum roll please................

S...E....C....T.....O.....R..... G......E.....A.......R.

Thats it.

Get a spare sector gear (and O ring) thats a given.


You bought a G&P, not a canadian tire special. Drive it and smile. My prediction is 6 months from now this will be your "spare" and you will be onto another gun.

Remember, as this progresses, you WILL need a "go to" gun. The one that does not piss you off and shoots every time.

I remember being in a game when Maddog was next to me having troubles with one of his AKs. He said, "oh well, been 2 years, maybe time to crack it open".

And he is not a chairsofter.

This puppy had miles on it.
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Last edited by Trev140_0; December 6th, 2012 at 21:27..
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Old December 6th, 2012, 22:03   #23
L473ncy
 
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My G&P (SOPMOD):

- Gears to Element Helical (Highly recommend the "Core 13:1" gearset for $20 unless you want to go Lonex 16:1 for $50).
- Bucking to Systema then now to a Guarder Black (because last one got torn and the Guarder was what was available), might as well go Lonex for this as well, I'd do the "50 degree" sleeve.
- Barrel to Guarder 6.02 (again, what was available to me, judging by how good Lonex is for the price I'd go Lonex 363mm as well)
- Spring to Modify S110+ (again what was available, Lonex M110SP if outdoor, if indoor get like an M90 or something). Remember FPS is a limit not a goal 380-400 on .20's is fine, hell I was running like 360 FPS (AND using .25's) for the longest time so like 320 FPS on .25's. If you've ever played paintball, those guns only shoot at like 260-270 FPS (using .65 cal paintballs which are like 2-3 grams at most).

That's about it and the only reason those parts in my G&P replaced was because they were broken or torn or worn out or whatever. Although the barrel replacement was just a "while I was in the gearbox/front end assy. I might as well do the barrel and bucking at the same time".

Especially those gears.... although I think I had mine last like 1000 rounds before they decided to shear off but they usually eventually do (which is kind of sad for a company that make such good externals TBH).
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Old December 12th, 2012, 14:00   #24
solidgear34
 
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what i did is that upgraded the hopup so that it has a new hopup rubber and tightbore barrel. thats pretty much all you need... aside from some accessories.
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