JG M4 on 11.1V Lipo?

[ginnz]

hi,

Last week, i bought a JG M4 SIR, i got it lightly used, and it didnt come with a battery, as it was supposed to.....

anyways, being an rc guy, i have 8 electric heli's, ranging from 450's to 600 trex's, i have many lipo packs laying around ranging from 3s to 8S, so, as i wanted to try the gun, i took the fore-end off and soldered a deans connector on, then managed to stuff a 11.1v 3s lipo in it, and barely close it. its tight.

anyways, the gun shoots fast, and the rof is very fast, im just wondering how long it will last? is the 11.1v too much for it? i have about 4000 bb's through it already, and it seems fine.

just curious.

ginnz.

[dpvu]

It's pretty tough to say. JG's mechbox parts are not bad but it only takes one little crack somewhere. It could literally last one more round or 10000 more. Running a LiPo certainly doesn't extend its life. Just be real easy on the trigger and maybe consider some things like sorbo pad.

The 11.1V LiPo is probably overkill. I'm also running one in my SPR with the new JG mechbox (Systema clone with the MOSFET) but as it is a DMR, I really only intend to fire it in semi-auto and the choice to use a LiPo was more due to space concerns.

[Shirley]

No. I tried on my mechbox v2 with Element 300% torque gears which are helical gears. They were ruined just before 8k of shots.

11.1v is too powerful unless they are li-po ready like a KWA, or you're running a 500fps spring which will break your v2.

[AngelusNex]

I would not run a lipo in a V2 mech box. I do however have an 11.1v lipo for my Ak (V3 box) which is a completely stock JG mech box so if you say, bought an AK or a Sig 552 or a G36 then those could handle the lipos with minimal issues.

[ginnz]

thanks for the reply, i dont know what a "sorbo" pad is, or any of this stuff, im actually a complete "noob" at airsoft guns..... ive owned a couple "real steel" guns in the past, an AK-47 for one ;-) but thats a long time ago....

i picked this up for a toy for my son to play with in the backyard. and now i realize its really not so much a toy, the thing shoots real hard, and is almost too heavy for him to shoot standing up..... i made a little bench rest for him, and he draws pictures of cats and uses them for targets. he's good at lettling little bursts off, he's not holding the trigger down. its a real blast watching him cut the targets up!

if this thing blows up, i can just order a new "mech-box" and all that stuff i suppose? heavier duty stuff, so it lasts?

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

No. I tried on my mechbox v2 with Element 300% torque gears which are helical gears. They were ruined just before 8k of shots.

11.1v is too powerful unless they are li-po ready like a KWA, or you're running a 500fps spring which will break your v2.

Nope. just nope....... element is a cheap brand, KWA's aren't really all that much better with lipos and lipos should never be in V2s

[ginnz]

well, ill keep you guys updated on how long this thing lasts..... we'll see.

[KND]

I run 11.1 Lipo on my stock ICS M4 like almost 8 k through it, not even a single problem get through it and plus my stock P90 has seen about 8 K as well and always full auto, never had a single problem yet but my KWA M4 which is brand new and design for Lipo ready broke on me after 2 K with Lipo 11.1 V battery.

KND

[Savage Haggis]

I ran a Lipo 11V in my stock JG V2 mech box (C7A2 config. & M4 S-System) with absolutely no problems for nearly two years



Where as I ran an 11V lipo in a stock ICS and blew up three upper mech boxes in just over a year... go figure.



I carry a duplicate spare upper with me in the field these days, just incase

[Schwag]

1. Lipo is ok for v2, assuming you've built a good box. Sorbo pad, sorbo piston head, titanium tooth piston, good shimming, bushings, bearing spring guide, lotsa grease, sector gear clip.
I've been running 11.1v KA lipo on a JG MP5 ras. 390 fps. Stock mech shell, all internals replaced except gears. I'm at around 16,000 bbs on full auto. Beautiful. And this is after the shell was used for who knows how many thousands of bbs before lipo.

I also run 11.1v lipo on my mp5k at 340 fps. ROF is insane. No issues after many thousands of bbs.

2. Lipo-ready guns are not really THAT lipo-ready. They could all use some work.
Our team has had 2 cracked KWA boxes on "lipo-ready" guns.
I would NEVER run a stock gun on lipo.

3. Boxes only have so many shots before they die. Lipo just makes it happen faster because it shoots faster.

4. Lipo is AWESOME. I fucking love the ROF, trigger response and longevity

[ginnz]

yeah, i kinda figured when i got it, that the lipo would really make it shine..... as i said, being an RC guy, i have unlimited lipo's, at least a dozen 3S packs, from 2100 mAh to 3300 mAh, that i run in 3 450 class heli's, and 6 - 4S packs that are 2200 mAh, i run them in series on a Trex 500 for 8S power (insane) and 8- 6S packs for 500 class birds, and the 8S packs, 300$ a piece, i have 6 for my trex 600..... 12,000 in birds and lipo's.... and 4 chargers.... a real drainer of a hobby.

now i think i may be liking this airsoft thing. i think ill build a killer mp5 that runs on 4s packs ;-)

we'll see where this goes. and ill read up on this stuff so i dont have to ask too many stupid questions, when i get involved in a hobby, i usually take it to the limit.

and i guess ill get age verified. man im 39. this age verification thing seems a bit out there......

BTW- there is an age verified guy 7 miles from me. can i just get him to vouch for me?

----EDIT----

i have another question here. i was using .12 bb's in it, and i found that the dang bb's all come flying out and curve up like around 4 feet at about 30 feet..... i turned the "hop up" thing down till it wouldnt go any further and find it shoots insanely high. so i went to the local farm service place and bought a big can of .20 gram bb's and tried them just now. i find that with the "hop up" turned right down, it still curved the bb's up about 3 feet at 30 feet..... whats the secret to getting these things to shoot reasonably accurate? i mounted a scope that i had on a "real" SKS.... ill post some pictures of my gun here in a couple minutes..... just have to snap some....:-)

ginnz.

[Schwag]

Heh. It is a bit inconvenient for alot of people but when you see the sheer numbers of annoying kids who present a huge liability to our game, you'll understand.
Once it's done, it's done though and your real asc life can begin.

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by Schwag

1. Lipo is ok for v2, assuming you've built a good box. Sorbo pad, sorbo piston head, titanium tooth piston, good shimming, bushings, bearing spring guide, lotsa grease, sector gear clip.
I've been running 11.1v KA lipo on a JG MP5 ras. 390 fps. Stock mech shell, all internals replaced except gears. I'm at around 16,000 bbs on full auto. Beautiful. And this is after the shell was used for who knows how many thousands of bbs before lipo.

I also run 11.1v lipo on my mp5k at 340 fps. ROF is insane. No issues after many thousands of bbs.

2. Lipo-ready guns are not really THAT lipo-ready. They could all use some work.
Our team has had 2 cracked KWA boxes on "lipo-ready" guns.
I would NEVER run a stock gun on lipo.

3. Boxes only have so many shots before they die. Lipo just makes it happen faster because it shoots faster.

4. Lipo is AWESOME. I fucking love the ROF, trigger response and longevity

i wouldnt use a piston with a full rack of metal teeth on a 11.1v lipo.
i have been running on a LiPo for about a year now and i have gone through three pistons. the problem with running at this high a current/voltage is that, if a BB jams in the hopup or barrel, the piston will not move forward fast enough to be ready for the next cycle. when that happends im sure you would rather replace the cheap piston than the expensive gears.

i no longer have that problem since im using a fire control MOSFET to reduce the rate of fire down to a more realistic speed. since i got LiPo for their size and not for the ROF they give.
this is the kind of piston i use. the difference is mine is the clear version.

[Schwag]

Originally Posted by Dynamo

i wouldnt use a piston with a full rack of metal teeth on a 11.1v lipo.
i have been running on a LiPo for about a year now and i have gone through three pistons. the problem with running at this high a current/voltage is that, if a BB jams in the hopup or barrel, the piston will not move forward fast enough to be ready for the next cycle. when that happends im sure you would rather replace the cheap piston than the expensive gears.

i no longer have that problem since im using a fire control MOSFET to reduce the rate of fire down to a more realistic speed. since i got LiPo for their size and not for the ROF they give.
this is the kind of piston i use. the difference is mine is the clear version.

Sorry, I don't get what you mean about the piston not coming back fast enough if a bb jams. Do you mean one in the chamber that keeps the nozzle from moving? I have never encountered this problem.

I used to go through pistons like mad. Started using the deepfire titanium tooth ones over a year ago and they have been perfect. Even after probably 50,000 bbs they looked new. Never had a jam.
I also use sector clips and madbull shark fin hopup sleeves to prevent misfeeds and double feeds.

I got lipo because all my other batteries died and my guns had a lowish ROF with lazy trigger response. I also shoot alot so no battery would last a full day. The Rof on my 390 fps mp5 is good, on my 340 fps mp5k is, it's nuts. The gun has recoil.

[ginnz]

wow....

lots of info here, you guys are great at updating threads! i can tell i have alot to learn. ;-)

here are some pics of the gun. BTW- i have alot of experience with the real steel, as i was in the military in my youth.... i have alot of experience with the FN-FAL, and C-7 and the STEN. and the SAW..... but that was dang near 20 years ago.... the C7 had just been adopted at that time. the FAL was a dream to shoot, right up to 600 meters.....

anyways, here are some pics.... (taken with Nikon D90) you can see the Lipo jammed in the foregrip, and the deans through the slots....

so, as i asked earlier, is it normal for the bb's to come flying out and curve upward at about 30 feet? even with the "hop-up" tuned all the way down?