Systema Magnum Motor

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

Is the Systema Magnum Motor known to make a beep noise when something is wrong? If so, what does it mean?

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by []D[][]\/[][]D

Is the Systema Magnum Motor known to make a beep noise when something is wrong? If so, what does it mean?

Uh. :|

I've never heard of a motor giving diagnostic beeps.

Do you have a mosfet installed?

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

Yeah, but I could swear I could hear it from the motor.

I got an Extreme-Fire SW-Cheetah MOSFET switch.

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by []D[][]\/[][]D

Yeah, but I could swear I could hear it from the motor.

I got an Extreme-Fire SW-Cheetah MOSFET switch.

yes, your motor would make a sound kind of like a faint shreaking (almost like it's beeping) sound. this happens when you have the wires reversed. it's the sound of the "soft start" struggleing to move the motor against the anti-reverse latch.
check to make sure the wires are set correctly, and check the rotation of the motor befor putting it into the gun. if you're not careful, you may either burn out your motor, mosfet or worse you battery (im assuming you're using a LiPo)

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

Well, the motor is spinning counter-clockwise when you're looking straight at the pinion gear. So it should be turning the bevel gear counter-clockwise in the right direction. But you are right about my Li-Po battery heating up very quickly after only a few trigger pulls.

The whole reason why I was asking is because I just got the MOSFET switch today and ever since I installed it it wasn't firing correctly.

[Dynamo]

if you're looking at the gearbox from the left side, the bevel gear should be spinning clockwise. so when looking down at the motor from the top, the pinion gear should be rotating counter-clockwise (turning to the left)

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

I think that's what I said because looking at the gearbox from the right side, the bevel gear should be turning counter-clockwise.

[Dynamo]

well, does the gun shoot at all?
if it does, then something else is wrong.
and i dont think it's a short or the mosfet would signal through the motor with vibrations indicating so.

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

I have to pull the trigger more than once for the gun to fire in semi-auto or in full-auto. It seems like it's very hesitant. I made videos of what's happening when I try and fire in semi-auto and in full-auto. You can download the videos from these links:

http://rapidshare.com/files/216338368/semi-auto.mov

http://rapidshare.com/files/216337261/full-auto.mov

The videos are in .mov format taken from my iPhone, so you'll need QuickTime player to play them. In the semi-auto video, you'll hear the beeping noise and in the full-auto video, you'll hear the motor vibrate after it fires indicating that my battery voltage is low. I don't know why it's saying that my battery voltage is low because I just charged my battery. Also, after pulling the trigger several times to try to get the gun to fire, the battery starts to get very warm to the touch. So I disconnected it immediately because it's a Li-Po battery.

[Dynamo]

ok, i had this problem befor. what is the C rating on your LiPo and how many mAh does it have.
i know the SW-Cheetah can take the voltage, but it is designed to be used with non-LiPo batteries. basicly the LiPo is pushing too much current through the SW-Cheetah, so it thinks that your batt is either over charged or you have a short somewhere(which you dont). you need to get a LiPo PCB from ProjectWolfDragon.com. it is designed to work with the Extreme-fire mosfets and connects to the input terminal on the SW-Cheetah side. i know it's a pain in the ass to add another board, but you are going to need it for the SW-Cheetah to work correctly. the LiPo PCB also tracks the voltage of each cell in the LiPo pack and communicates with the MOSFET, so it'll cut the power if the battery voltage gets below 3.2volts/cell.
it's really the only way to get the SW-Cheetah working with an 11.1v battery, and with out it the Cheetah (if working at all)will not shut down and over discharge your LiPo.

here you can see the LiPo PCB on top of the SW-Cheetah (green LED means everything is working). the LiPo PCB also warns you if anything is wrong once connected (it has a red, yellow and greed LED to indicate any problems)

[m102404]

Try a full reset on the MOSFET (not sure if it has the same startup buzz sequence as the others). My SW-COMP freaked out and got "confused" when I plugged a big lipo into it...and then even "weaker" batteries (ones that worked fine in it before) wouldn't work.

I did a full reset and tried again...and it was fine. It was explained to me that because it remembers the last settings...when you switch to a batt that is very different (V or A), it thinks that something is wrong.

Tys

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

Originally Posted by m102404

Try a full reset on the MOSFET (not sure if it has the same startup buzz sequence as the others). My SW-COMP freaked out and got "confused" when I plugged a big lipo into it...and then even "weaker" batteries (ones that worked fine in it before) wouldn't work.

I did a full reset and tried again...and it was fine. It was explained to me that because it remembers the last settings...when you switch to a batt that is very different (V or A), it thinks that something is wrong.

Tys

Yeah, that was the first thing I did. But it didn't work.

Originally Posted by Dynamo

ok, i had this problem befor. what is the C rating on your LiPo and how many mAh does it have.
i know the SW-Cheetah can take the voltage, but it is designed to be used with non-LiPo batteries. basicly the LiPo is pushing too much current through the SW-Cheetah, so it thinks that your batt is either over charged or you have a short somewhere(which you dont). you need to get a LiPo PCB from ProjectWolfDragon.com. it is designed to work with the Extreme-fire mosfets and connects to the input terminal on the SW-Cheetah side. i know it's a pain in the ass to add another board, but you are going to need it for the SW-Cheetah to work correctly. the LiPo PCB also tracks the voltage of each cell in the LiPo pack and communicates with the MOSFET, so it'll cut the power if the battery voltage gets below 3.2volts/cell.
it's really the only way to get the SW-Cheetah working with an 11.1v battery, and with out it the Cheetah (if working at all)will not shut down and over discharge your LiPo.

here you can see the LiPo PCB on top of the SW-Cheetah (green LED means everything is working). the LiPo PCB also warns you if anything is wrong once connected (it has a red, yellow and greed LED to indicate any problems)

I'll look into that Li-Po PCB add-on for my SW-CHEETAH. But do you think that it could be my motor? Because I'm hearing that beeping sound everytime I pull the trigger.

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

I think I might have found the solution:

http://extreme-fire.com/SystemaMagnumInsulatorKit.pdf

EDIT: Now, does anybody know where I can get some fiber washers?

[Dynamo]

well im using a magnum motor and i didnt have to do aything to it.
i have a spare LiPo PCB and i can give you to tryout. all my guns use LiPos now and i was getting the same problem with all of them untill i got the LiPo PCB added.
like i said, the SW-Cheetah and the other MOSFETs from Extreme-Fire.com are designed to be used with NICaDs and NIMH batteries. the MOSFETs will not correctly track the Cell voltage on the LiPo batteries without the LiPo PCB.
if you discharge your LiPo pack under 4v/cell the Cheetah will work fine.

[[]D[][]\/[][]D]

I can send you an EMT for the Li-Po PCB? Just let me know how much you want for it. I don't want you to just lend it to me because you don't really know me in person, and I normally wouldn't lend anything to someone that I haven't met in person.

I also have another idea what it could be... I just got my SOCOM Gear Li-Po Charger with Balancer today and when I plugged in my Li-Po, it was telling me that the battery wasn't even charged. I was using a FireFox Li-Po Charger before, it's just a basic wall charger with no balancer. The battery that I have is a GE Power 11.1V 1300mAh 15C Li-Ion. I guess that the FireFox charger is no good then. But this is just a theory, after the battery is fully charged for sure this time, I'll give it a try. If it still doesn't work, then I'll buy your Li-Po PCB from you.

I also tried a friends Trigger Master MkIII and my gun was doing the exact same thing and I was also using the same battery that I thought was fully charged. The Trigger Master MkIII is meant to be used with Li-Po's.