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December 13th, 2012, 16:21 | #1 |
New Build, and off to a bad start.
So I just got the rest of the parts needed from airsoftparts.ca and I have to give a big thanks to Jugglez for the great service, fast shipping and the little extra gift he threw in.
To start off the build I had to remove the barrel nut from the upper receiver and low and behold the damn thing went and cracked on me right in front of the ejection port. I honestly wasn't expecting much else because of how the king arms body's are constructed at that spot. I will have to break out the jb weld and fix it (if possible) before I strip and refinish the body.I will probably just cut off the delta ring and barrel nut as to avoid any other problems with the body and if necessary I will just replace the entire receiver. For the time being I will just finish the gearbox and leave the rest until I can fix this bump in the road. If any of you guys have experience using jb weld on a cracked receiver your knowledge would be great. I have used it for the odd thing here and there but never a repair like this. |
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December 13th, 2012, 16:48 | #2 |
Mr. Silencer
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From my experience with JB Weld, I should probably tell you that you should probably not use it on anything that's going to experience much of any shear force.
Your JB-welded receiver is probably going to look very poor as well as even the thinnest layer of chemical bond is going to make your receiver not line up. |
December 13th, 2012, 16:58 | #3 | |
Quote:
Here is the crack, fortunately the way it separated will make it easier to hide the repair. It almost isn't visible when in its original spot and if it becomes a problem in the future it looks like i have a good excuse to get a new receiver set. Once again Stealth thanks for the info. Last edited by OM3GA; December 13th, 2012 at 17:15.. |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:08 | #4 |
It's very common for that area to crack when you don't clamp the receiver properly. You can use JB weld on it, but just make sure to remove the finish and get down to clean bare metal before using the JG weld. Ground out a groove right along the crack for a solid bond. Good luck with that.
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:12 | #5 | |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:18 | #6 |
The best way to clamp the receiver is in a clamshell style upper receiver block. It prevents twisting and parts snappage like you see here.
Edit: Just like this one http://www.midwayusa.com/product/210...ck-clamp-ar-15 |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:23 | #8 | |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:31 | #9 |
I'll take a picture of my jig that I use in my table vice later. It's very simple and you can use a piece of wood or a cutting board.
__________________
Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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December 13th, 2012, 17:42 | #10 | |
GBB Whisperer
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Quote:
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December 13th, 2012, 17:45 | #11 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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torque is a bitch :/ sucks to have that happen to a newer gun too.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
December 13th, 2012, 17:51 | #12 |
Great piece of info, I wasn't sure of this myself or not. Damn AEG's and their dimensional differences, all the more reason that I want a GBBR some time. I'm interested in seeing HK's setup as it could prove to be very useful in the future. I'm still amazed that King Arms torques things on as tightly as they do.
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December 13th, 2012, 18:06 | #13 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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they probably use some sort of thread locker or adhesive... either that or something is hot when they assemble it and it just contracts tighter.. who knows.
__________________
I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
December 13th, 2012, 18:06 | #14 |
So I found it easiest to use a piece of wood, or a cutting board like I did for this jig. An important part is to have a table vice that's large enough to hold your upper receiver.
Cut a notch into the board to fit the front tang of the receiver. I've made mine to fit both AEGs and real steel for WE and PTWs. This is what it looks like in my Modify table vice. The import thing is to support the front end of the receiver. This is the thickest and strongest area to support. You can also use a standard table vice but you'll need to make two boards. One for the upper and lower so you don't scratch your finish. Always make sure that the front thickest part is clamped tight. Then you can use more torque to remove stubborn barrel nuts. Don't do what I did here as you can see the very front is not supported. This is just to show.
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message Last edited by HKGhost; December 13th, 2012 at 18:10.. |
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December 13th, 2012, 18:18 | #15 |
That is a great and simple set up. I did something very similar but front wasn't supported enough (pretty much like the last picture) and allowed enough flex to cause a crack. I will have to set it up like this and get the stubborn barrel nut off so I can continue. I had too much faith in the crappy receiver and it had none of it. Thanks for posting up the pictures as they will make things much easier.
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