We g39c part #90 fa. Arm

Paddle2DaC · August 24th, 2012, 20:50

Mine broke where would I be able to purchase one? I have emailed wettech and they won't respond. I have also Google searched to no avail. Thanks in advance!

Paddle2DaC · August 31st, 2012, 22:51

102 views and no reply. She ain't looking to good.

jordan7831 · August 31st, 2012, 22:52

I tried google as well for you. No luck either. Maybe you can try making a part yourself. Post a picture of it.

Paddle2DaC · August 31st, 2012, 23:33

I'll take a pic and post it this week. Also garrison airsoft weren't able to get it and I have emailed wettech a second time and again no response.

jordan7831 · August 31st, 2012, 23:37

I look up a diagram of the G36. Looks like a totally flat piece of metal is that correct? It it is perhaps a home made part could be in order.

Pic is 6 MB. Beware

http://weairsoft.com/download/WE%20G39C.png

Kos-Mos · August 31st, 2012, 23:41

Impossible to find.

I tried. NO ONE has it or wants to order it.

WE told me to contact GI or EVIKE, both refuse to order it.

Best bet would be to have one made from a billet from a machinist. It would be good forever that way.

Paddle2DaC · September 2nd, 2012, 00:11

Okay. That's a bummer. Thankfully I have two g39 and for now I will swap the trigger assembly. Once winter has come around ill get one made. Is this a common failure?

Paddle2DaC · September 2nd, 2012, 00:15

Jordan7831 the part has a tiny bend at the end (which broke off) I could probably build something but would rather have it machined so that it never breaks again.

Ross · September 2nd, 2012, 00:39

That part looks like the same one off of the scar. it's not on the m4 though.

Kos-Mos · September 2nd, 2012, 01:14

It's not the same as the SCAR.

And the part is not present on the M4 because the bolt is longer than on both the SCAR and G36, no need for one.

You can probably make a temp one with some thick steel... but don't expect the bend to last any longer... You will have to temper it to have something viable.

Paddle2DaC · September 2nd, 2012, 19:27

Thanks for the info guys! I'll post a picture when I get one made. Depending on the price I might make extras for other people in the same situation.

jordan7831 · September 2nd, 2012, 20:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kos-Mos

It's not the same as the SCAR.

And the part is not present on the M4 because the bolt is longer than on both the SCAR and G36, no need for one.

You can probably make a temp one with some thick steel... but don't expect the bend to last any longer... You will have to temper it to have something viable.

Just for sake of conversation, how would one temper the metal at home? Would heating with a blowtorch and then quenching in oil work? Or would it be easier to heat it with a torch and allow it to cool gradually. Im thinking the latter would relieve stresses in the metal. But I really have no clue, im a business major haha.

XZIVR · September 2nd, 2012, 20:19

Heat treating is typically a 2-stage process. Assuming we're working with steel, and for the purposes of giving you a general idea of how to do it, you first need to heat it til it's red hot (pretty much as hot as you could get it with a propane torch) and then RAPIDLY quench it in water. Best way to do this at home might be to drop it in a bucket of water and immediately start stirring the water so you dont get a little pocket of steam forming around the part.

That only gets you part way there. Now you will have something that is essentially very hard, a fair bit stronger (more than you may think) but VERY brittle. The second part of the heat treating process is to gradually and evenly heat it to somewhere in the 700* range (juuuust a little flow to it) and hold it there for as long as possible (in an industrial process, typically over an hour) and then allow it to cool as SLOWLY as possible. Best way to do that is set it on a brick and leave it be. This tempering process will restore some of the 'toughness' to the metal and basically get you the best of both worlds, hard and strong.

Oh and just so we are clear with our terms, hard candy (think jolly ranchers) is HARD not soft. it is also brittle, not tough. Beef jerkey is soft, not hard, and tough, not brittle. Make sense?

In any case, OP might want to check this out: http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/vale...alet_order.php

jordan7831 · September 2nd, 2012, 20:26

So I guess what your saying Xzivr is that one would have to do both of what I said in my above post.

1. Heat the metal until red hot and quickly quench it.
2. Relieve stress in the metal by heating it for a long time and letting it slowly cool.

Thanks for letting me know!

Jordan

Oh BTW the steam is called the Leidenfrost effect

XZIVR · September 2nd, 2012, 20:30

Oh, so they did teach you something useful in business school. :P

But yeah, simply put, heat and quench for hardness, temper and slow cool after that (and order is important here) for toughness.

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August 24th, 2012, 20:50	#1
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	We g39c part #90 fa. Arm Mine broke where would I be able to purchase one? I have emailed wettech and they won't respond. I have also Google searched to no avail. Thanks in advance! __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

August 31st, 2012, 22:51	#2
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	102 views and no reply. She ain't looking to good. __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

August 31st, 2012, 23:33	#4
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	I'll take a pic and post it this week. Also garrison airsoft weren't able to get it and I have emailed wettech a second time and again no response. __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

August 31st, 2012, 22:52	#3
jordan7831 will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North York - Toronto	I tried google as well for you. No luck either. Maybe you can try making a part yourself. Post a picture of it.

August 31st, 2012, 23:37	#5
jordan7831 will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North York - Toronto	I look up a diagram of the G36. Looks like a totally flat piece of metal is that correct? It it is perhaps a home made part could be in order. Pic is 6 MB. Beware http://weairsoft.com/download/WE%20G39C.png Last edited by jordan7831; September 1st, 2012 at 01:26..

September 2nd, 2012, 00:11	#7
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	Okay. That's a bummer. Thankfully I have two g39 and for now I will swap the trigger assembly. Once winter has come around ill get one made. Is this a common failure? __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

September 2nd, 2012, 00:15	#8
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	Jordan7831 the part has a tiny bend at the end (which broke off) I could probably build something but would rather have it machined so that it never breaks again. __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

September 2nd, 2012, 00:39	#9
Ross Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Winnipeg	That part looks like the same one off of the scar. it's not on the m4 though. __________________

September 2nd, 2012, 19:27	#11
Paddle2DaC Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Sudbury, ON	Thanks for the info guys! I'll post a picture when I get one made. Depending on the price I might make extras for other people in the same situation. __________________ www.airsoftsudbury.com

September 2nd, 2012, 20:19	#13
XZIVR Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Calgary, AB	Heat treating is typically a 2-stage process. Assuming we're working with steel, and for the purposes of giving you a general idea of how to do it, you first need to heat it til it's red hot (pretty much as hot as you could get it with a propane torch) and then RAPIDLY quench it in water. Best way to do this at home might be to drop it in a bucket of water and immediately start stirring the water so you dont get a little pocket of steam forming around the part. That only gets you part way there. Now you will have something that is essentially very hard, a fair bit stronger (more than you may think) but VERY brittle. The second part of the heat treating process is to gradually and evenly heat it to somewhere in the 700* range (juuuust a little flow to it) and hold it there for as long as possible (in an industrial process, typically over an hour) and then allow it to cool as SLOWLY as possible. Best way to do that is set it on a brick and leave it be. This tempering process will restore some of the 'toughness' to the metal and basically get you the best of both worlds, hard and strong. Oh and just so we are clear with our terms, hard candy (think jolly ranchers) is HARD not soft. it is also brittle, not tough. Beef jerkey is soft, not hard, and tough, not brittle. Make sense? In any case, OP might want to check this out: http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/vale...alet_order.php Last edited by XZIVR; September 2nd, 2012 at 20:24..

September 2nd, 2012, 20:26	#14
jordan7831 will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: North York - Toronto	So I guess what your saying Xzivr is that one would have to do both of what I said in my above post. 1. Heat the metal until red hot and quickly quench it. 2. Relieve stress in the metal by heating it for a long time and letting it slowly cool. Thanks for letting me know! Jordan Oh BTW the steam is called the Leidenfrost effect

September 2nd, 2012, 20:30	#15
XZIVR Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Calgary, AB	Oh, so they did teach you something useful in business school. :P But yeah, simply put, heat and quench for hardness, temper and slow cool after that (and order is important here) for toughness.

We g39c part #90 fa. Arm

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