Nublisaur Questions

[Torn Soul]

Okay, so I've been wanting to get into Airsoft and finally found a deal that allowed me to get my intro kit. I got an ARES G36C online, and so far I am stoked. The Hi-Cap mags I ordered didn't work as they were TM clones and wouldn't even lock into my gun. I found some SRC lowcap bullet replica mags that fit well enough and don't seem to have any feed issues. My big thing is I could only get 22 rounds into each without forcing them, though they're supposed to fit 50 rounds. I lubed them up with silicone lube and worked them but in my noobness I over lubed them slightly. I have only fired a full 50 rounds out of each mag so I'm not sure if the problem will repeat. When I fired all the rounds through a few times I would get a pile up of ammo in the barrel and it seemed it would only clear once a bunch backed up. Is that an over lubrication issue? or could that be a mag feed issue? The 6 mags worked fine with 22 rounds in each but this is the only time i"ve had 50.

The lube I use was given to me by the Airsoft supplier here in FSJ that's also the auto electrical company in town. It's quite thick like a foaming lubricant. Are they all fairly thick or is it liquid normally? Did I just screw my gun/mags?

The other thing is to feed my mags up to 50 I need to use a push rod style loader. The speed loader one guy has I tried only pushes like 20-22 in without getting tight. Should I keep going to 50 on the mags?

[Styrak]

What's the lube called and what type is it? Silicone or something else?
Also what's FSJ? You need more info in your post.
TM/clones G36 mags should work in an ARES G36, but I could be wrong...

[Torn Soul]

The lube I use is Permatex Silicone Lube

FSJ is my town sorry, Fort St. john B.C..

The TM Mags I had just fell out, SRC and MAG Mags fit but so far that's all I can find. Finding ARES mags isn't easy either.

[lurkingknight]

that's bad juju for anything rubber. Most if not all canned/propelled lubricant uses petroleum products as propellant, that mixes in with the silicone oil and can futz up rubber. It even does it on cars, but the rubber products on cars is so thick that it tends to take a lot before it swells noticeably.


50 rounders shouldn't have any issues loading, you shouldn't need to force them.. only a few midcaps with overpowered springs have that issue. The speed loader essentially does the same thing as a push loader it won't make any difference. A speed loader is just more convenient.

If you overlubed your mag, the BBs will be lubed, and the lube gets on the hopup bucking, and depending on how wet it got with the can propellant, it could have swollen, however, if the gun is firing fine with the mag it came with, then it's not swollen and you're good, at that point it's a mag feeding issue.

[L473ncy]

If you ever go to Prince George there's a pretty decent community. If you ever go to Edmonton Capital Airsoft/Alberta Airsoft (Jeff Baker on the forums here) are the go to guys for things.

As for your problem, are you using a proper BB loader ie. old school "Rod and plunger" or newer pistol mag/m4 mag style BB loader? or just hand loading them?

For the feeding problems, you can try using STAR branded mags; You kind of have to suck ARES' dick as far as mag compatibility goes. Either that or shave off/dremel a small section on your mags' mag catch area or something.

Jamming is probably a hop up issue. May be that your bucking has swollen and hop up is all the way on or something?

Also another word of caution, if your ARES is an EBB version; NEVER have your bolt locked back while firing or your gears WILL shred. Due to design, locking the bolt back disables the Anti Reversal Latch and the loading will make the teeth of the gears shear off and gearset replacements are like $50 for good ones (or buy a replacement SHS gearset for $20+ shipping which are an AWESOME deal).

[Torn Soul]

Hrm so I've seen vids here even showing canned silicone lube. What is the best to use? A liquid drop style? As for the hop up, possibly. Before I could hold the AEG upside down and fire off the 2-3 rounds holdover in the gun when the mag is empty but after lubing I couldn't. They fired one by one when I dropped them into the gun once I pulled my mag reciever off and dropped them into place. Will have to swab the barrel somehow and clean the gun and mags with some electrical contact cleaner and see if I can get it firing properly.

As for the bolt being back, how do you mean locked? I'm assuming it locks back to access the hop up?

I actually bought some of my gear from Capital when I was in Edmonton last week. Hard to get to either places though with the 5-6 hour drive to get there. There are a few gun docs in FSJ but not sure what everyone knows officially. Most people push LiPo like crazy, yet no reason other than ROF and longevity. Guys at Capital convinced me to put the stock spring back in my G36C and run NiMH batteries for now. I'm not wanting to strip piston and be out of the game for ages until I can get parts from ARES.

[Torn Soul]

The loader I'm using is from my cheapo clear plastic toy airsoft we used to screw around and shoot eachother at the shop on days we were drinking lol. I didn't get a loader with my mag package like I was supposed to so I resorted to using it. It's just a tube and rod-plunger style loader that holds 50 rounds but they don't sit as straight as they could. There's too much play and therefore they sit zig zagged somewhat in there which I understand is a problem with ease of loading. I used one of the local guy's speed loader and it only pushed the same amount in.

I searched the number off the box for the mags and it's an SRC 50 round Lowcap mag pack. So I said screw it, put the 22 rounds into the mag then used the rod from the loader to push them in. Gently at first to see if they had give then when it moved I pushed it in further just to see it moved. I then ejected the rounds, loaded up 50 and shoved them in. Two mags are harder to get past the 22 round mark while the rest are easier. Could this be the point the rounds and spring have to curve then start traveling upwards? Or are mags designed that way? I assume they're in a "U" shape for lowcaps.

As for the spring, the research I did on the ARES is that only mags with heavier springs can push the rounds into them properly without feed issues. Maybe this brand has a heavier spring?

I dunno, hense why I'm here lol

[slink182]

OK, what you want is silicone spray lube for your magazines. The mags may just require a break-in period (BBs probably binding at the U). Shoot a short spritz (like, 1/10th of a second) into the magazine from the feed lip, preferably with the plastic directing nozzle/stick shoved into it. Get a 5-6 mm dowel and work the spring inside. Do this 2-3 times, then fill and empty the magazine several time to ensure the spring and the magazine internal walls are lightly lubed.

Don't use thick lube. It'll only gunk up your magazine and play hell with any loaded BBs (and hopup and barrel once you start shooting). Avoid using liquid lube - it won't apply evenly and may pool.

Check your hopup. Turn it down to zero/off and look down the barrel - if you see a bump from the hopup rubber, it's swelled and you'll need to replace it. Otherwise, turn up your hopup until you see the bump and run a few test-fires.

If your barrel's very fouled, pull out a 0.22 calibre cleaning kit, wrap/fit a swab, apply some light silicon oil, and run it through the barrel a few times (hopup off, or just deep enough to clean the barrel but avoiding the hopup). Run as many swabs as necessary for it to come out clean.

As you are new, just use the NiMH batteries. LiPo's have their own pros/cons. You can always move into LiPos as you gain experience running AEGs and your comfort level with them increases.