I don't run a MOSFET because...

[ManateeMatt]

Those Fets are sexy... Very similar specs to the one I made, but in a nice SM package.

I think I am going to have to try one and see how it does.

[Pesky]

Great videos man, and i will be going with the basic fet the GDS-4005

but again another question and i think i know the answer to this but i am going to ask it anyways, for installing it i should go with low resistance wiring to shouldn't I ? just to add to the benefits of the FET and using a lipo it will help shouldn't it ?

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by coach

Nice video with close ups. Will you be doing an install video for both?

Edit: does the use of the single or double trigger wire eliminate the need for the programming switch?

Working on the install videos as we speak.

Yes, you can program it using the trigger if you're hooking it up with the single or dual trigger wires, but you'll still need to visually see the LEDs to know what you're doing. To enter programming mode, you have to disconnect it from the motor. You don't *need* to use the programming button. What I've seen some people do is pre-program the unit before installing it via the button, then plugged it all together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xnGePRyIdo

Originally Posted by Pesky

Great videos man, and i will be going with the basic fet the GDS-4005

but again another question and i think i know the answer to this but i am going to ask it anyways, for installing it i should go with low resistance wiring to shouldn't I ? just to add to the benefits of the FET and using a lipo it will help shouldn't it ?

As lurkingknight or Thundercactus will probably tell you, the biggest gains you'll realize will come from the FET itself. But if you're already in the area working on the wiring, why not replace it with better wire? I would recommend it especially if your gun has the crappy Deans wet noodle wire which tends to tear at the mere sight of a sharp edge. LOL!

[Pesky]

Yeah that's another thing i still have the tamiya connectors and i want to switch them out for XT60 and after watching the video you posted up for the installation of the GDS-4005 i now have an good idea how to install it without re doing all the wiring, i can do it pretty neat actually and have it all tucked away, so that is one big thing i have to thing about, but again thank you very stealth for all the help its been greatly appreciated!

[Stealth]

Installed pictures:







The Install and Demo video is now up.
Subscribe to our channel, I think we're going to start doing way more vids.

Setup is Lonex box, 18:1 gears, SP150 spring, Lonex A1 motor, 11.1v lipo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIfSeXau0_0&feature=plcp

Hit it!

[Spike]

...wow

Buying the shit out of one of these. I take it that there's not enough room for a stock tube lipo if you run one, though?

[Stealth]

It depends on your setup and what kind of lipo.

In my FET-less carbine setup, I have a 17cm long 11.1v lipo and I run with the 6-position stock in the #4 position (with the ability to go down to #3) so it's not an issue for me. I could theoretically run a 7.4V lipo or even a shorter 11.1 and fit the GDS-4005 in there. It would probably have to be in the #4 or #5 position though.

[Stealth]

So for the longest time, I couldn't figure out how the MERF 3.2 reduces electrical arcing just by plugging it in, but I finally figured it out while eating lunch (yes this is the type of shit I think about)

Basically there is no full voltage/amperage when the switch is open (trigger not pulled). Once the trigger is pulled, the unit detects that the switch is closed, turns the power on from the battery and thus there is less arcing due to the fact that the connection has already been made before the full current really gets going. There will still be arcing on the release cycle though, so it's reduced, not eliminated - just as Gate has advertised.

So it really does work - for those who are kind of lazy and want a reduction in electrical arcing and 3rd burst.

Neat.

[ToRN]

This poll needs a 'I use a gbb' option

[m102404]

Not sure if there's a different thread for this...but I was messing about with the simple mosfet this past weekend on a SAW/box mag. It's a very nice unit.

Just some very minor points:
1. As mentioned in your video...you'll want to open up the female spade connectors on the mosfet.
2. If you don't "pinch" the circuit board and the heatsink when you press in the spade connectors you can bend the mosfet chip (or more accurately it's wires)
3. It would be nice to lable the circuit board itselft with a simple G/D/S...it's in the video, but it'd be nice to have right there.
4. the male spade connectors are very long. Either don't push them in so far or trim them....because one is definitely long enough to touch another solder spot when pushed in. I'm not an electrician/etc...so I can't say what it'd do, but I didn't want to short anything.

I setup it up in a M60 w/motorized box mag running on a 11.1v 2000mAh 20C LiPo. Just working on the wiring so far and it's all good. I'm sure I had the wiring wrong the first try what with the extra circuits for the box mag and the variable resistor loop. I ended up simplifying the wiring layout and it works just fine.