FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

is it the small stainless pin that's really hard to install in the first place? Prog4 hammer assy comes with 2 pin's; long one for the strut, and the short one is the ones that i have to remove right?

Yes, that's the pin.

Obviously, I'm not telling you to toss the strut pin. LOL.

[simohayha]

Works like a charm Ilussion,now it works really smooth. thanks alot bro. and i think that not having half decock is a big plus too.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

i think that not having half decock is a big plus too.

I suppose that's subjective. Some people like it because it looks cool in the movies when the hero manually decocks the hammer. But in reality, the half-cock is in place as a safety feature.

[simohayha]

ok, found two more "problem".
first: after i assemble the whole gun, all mechanics are functioning, but as i pull the slide back slowly, its seems like the hammer (in cocked position) is pushing up against the lower side of the bbu (the one that allways have the paint/anodising worn out) causing excessive friction. and if i release the slide slowly, the slide would stuck with the lower side of bbu unable to pass trough the hammer.
the cycling works if i pull it fast / hard enough or just release the slide from it back most position with 150% spring pushing the slide forward.
i have a feeling that this is caused by using guarder 150% spring set and the main spring is pushing the hammer too hard.
is there any way around this or is its just easier to swap back to standard mainspring?

second:the nova thumb safety can "click" into save position without the slide installed BUT cant if i install the slide, as if the triangle cut in the slide where it sits when in save is not cut high enough for the thumb safety to "click" and hold its position. now if i try to put it in safe and shake the gun, it just fell back to fire position.
thanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

ok, found one more "problem".
after i assemble the whole gun, all mechanics are functioning, but as i pull the slide back slowly, its seems like the hammer (in cocked position) is pushing up against the lower side of the bbu (the one that allways have the paint/anodising worn out) causing excessive friction. and if i release the slide slowly, the slide would stuck with the lower side of bbu unable to pass trough the hammer.
the cycling works if i pull it fast / hard enough or just release the slide from it back most position with 150% spring pushing the slide forward.
i have a feeling that this is caused by using guarder 150% spring set and the main spring is pushing the hammer too hard.
is there any way around this or is its just easier to swap back to standard mainspring?
thanks

Every setup is different in that regard. The only thing that I can suggest is to try swapping different parts. Your particular combination of parts could be making this problem worse than other combinations

[simohayha]

hmmmmm ok, ill try swapping parts then. by the way do u know whether PDI delta hammer works with prog4 hammer assy (sear,spur,etc), cause i really want delta style hammer and my prog4 ones is ring type.

[spartan117]

So Illusion, the half cock pin allows the Half cock function on a hi capa? Does it inhibit one from decocking the hammer?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

hmmmmm ok, ill try swapping parts then. by the way do u know whether PDI delta hammer works with prog4 hammer assy (sear,spur,etc), cause i really want delta style hammer and my prog4 ones is ring type.

I do not personally know, as I've never tried that hammer before, but I don't see why it wouldn't function.

For what it's worth, it's recommended to never mix brands of hammers and sears, unless you are absolutely certain that both parts are made of materials that complement each other in Hardness Rating. Otherwise, the softer of the two components will wear down the other part quicker, which will result in a safety issue. For example, if the PDI hammer is made of a softer material than the ProG4 sear (it is China-grade P20 steel), then the ProG4 sear will eat the hammer hooks of the PDI hammer which can cause uncontrolled full auto fire, burst fire, or accidental discharges if you bump the gun.

Originally Posted by spartan117

So Illusion, the half cock pin allows the Half cock function on a hi capa? Does it inhibit one from decocking the hammer?

Correct on both counts.

As a side note, one should always be careful when manually decocking a 1911/2011, and be mindful of the magazine status. If a gassed magazine is inserted and you manually decock, there is potential for the slide to blowback and clip your thumb. Not fun if you're running a metal slide, high flow valves and propane. You could say "bye bye thumbnail".... as well as whatever was in the path of the muzzle when (if) a BB is fired on this accidental discharge.

[simohayha]

ok will try to order it and post the compatibility when i receive the hammer.

does anyone know whether silver SD slides (6061 aluminum), is coated (anodized or any other means of electroplating) or just machine finished. Im planning to make a very shiny V12 slide (allready bought silver SD V12 slide) and are wondering whether it possible to maybe chrome/nickel/white gold plate it via electroplating and is there any coatings that have to be stripped first.
and is there any compatibility/fitment issue between SD slide (V12 in particular) with NOVA lower frame?
thanks

[T[]RK]

Sometime ago i founded sear pin broken on my Desert Warrior. After that it start shoot Full auto (i guess controlled - it stop when i take away my finger. That was unexpected. Hope new pin can help return semi-auto.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

does anyone know whether silver SD slides (6061 aluminum), is coated (anodized or any other means of electroplating) or just machine finished. Im planning to make a very shiny V12 slide (allready bought silver SD V12 slide) and are wondering whether it possible to maybe chrome/nickel/white gold plate it via electroplating and is there any coatings that have to be stripped first.
and is there any compatibility/fitment issue between SD slide (V12 in particular) with NOVA lower frame?
thanks

Shooter's Design all silver slides are sandblasted. Their two-tone slides are machined finish (on the silver areas).

I can't imagine any compatibility issues between SD slides and Nova lowers... nothing you wouldn't have problems with doing any type of fitment, even between an SD frame and SD slide.

Originally Posted by T[]RK

Sometime ago i founded sear pin broken on my Desert Warrior. After that it start shoot Full auto (i guess controlled - it stop when i take away my finger. That was unexpected. Hope new pin can help return semi-auto.

What is the "sear pin"?

[simohayha]

If the silver sd slides are sandblasted that what about silver nova kits? I thought that nova is the one thats sandblasted due to its glittery/misty look ( dunno how to describe it) but im sure u know what i mean

[chenmeister]

hey guys, after quitting airsoft for a couple years and selling all my gbbs, i decided to get another one to shoot around the house. ended up getting a marui meu with metal frame/slide and upped springs/valve.

I did the lighter oring mod on my silver meu mag with hi flows (http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...il?bulletID=50) and i save a lot of gas but the magazine doesn't get cold when i fill it at all and I'm never able to get a full magazine's worth. I hear some gas going in and then something what sounds like trickling gas going in. Maybe I'm just cause i've been out of airsoft too long, but does the oring prevent the magazine from being filled completely? I remember they worked perfectly fine with my old kwa glock.
One another stock 1911 mag, gas spills like crazy and gets really cold and gas never seems to go in. I'm lucky to get a full magazine's worth on either of these magazines right now, pretty frusterating.

Also, the recoil/power is pretty inconsistent. One round will feel like the magazine's out of the gas and the next will feel amazing. Is this because there is something wrong with my loading chamber? (a crack?). I remember I had the same problem with my old hi capa 5.1 and the loading chamber cracked in half a while later.

thanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

If the silver sd slides are sandblasted that what about silver nova kits? I thought that nova is the one thats sandblasted due to its glittery/misty look ( dunno how to describe it) but im sure u know what i mean

Both are sandblasted. The grain used in the sandblasting process will affect the final result.

Originally Posted by chenmeister

hey guys, after quitting airsoft for a couple years and selling all my gbbs, i decided to get another one to shoot around the house. ended up getting a marui meu with metal frame/slide and upped springs/valve.

I did the lighter oring mod on my silver meu mag with hi flows (http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...il?bulletID=50) and i save a lot of gas but the magazine doesn't get cold when i fill it at all and I'm never able to get a full magazine's worth. I hear some gas going in and then something what sounds like trickling gas going in. Maybe I'm just cause i've been out of airsoft too long, but does the oring prevent the magazine from being filled completely? I remember they worked perfectly fine with my old kwa glock.
One another stock 1911 mag, gas spills like crazy and gets really cold and gas never seems to go in. I'm lucky to get a full magazine's worth on either of these magazines right now, pretty frusterating.

I've never been a fan of fill valves that don't allow external spray, as you don't get a visual/audio indicator of the magazine being full. I don't believe the o-ring "mod" will actually do anything to make it fill better, as I see no problem with my mags that allow for overspray.

For what it's worth, the setup you have in particular is not surprising that you can't get a full mag out. It's quite common with the single stack setups to not be able to get a full mag out with heavier metal slides and enhanced recoil springs due to the limited capacity. High flow valves will exacerbate the issue.

Originally Posted by chenmeister

Also, the recoil/power is pretty inconsistent. One round will feel like the magazine's out of the gas and the next will feel amazing. Is this because there is something wrong with my loading chamber? (a crack?). I remember I had the same problem with my old hi capa 5.1 and the loading chamber cracked in half a while later.

thanks

That doesn't sound like there's a problem with the loading nozzle. If you have a cracked nozzle, you wouldn't get a solid blowback at all. There sounds like another problem happening, but you'd need to search more to see what the cause could be. One potential cause is the chamber locking against the slide - this is a somewhat common issue with metal barrels & metal slide upgrades. It may help us help you diagnose it further if you provide the brand/model of the slide/barrel as well.

[chenmeister]

This is what I have
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/eac-custo...ol-chrome.html
which is this slide/frame (Guarder Aluminum TRP G-MEU-05E)
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/guarder-a...ng-silver.html
the floating gas chamber seems to flow pretty smoothly. It used to stick to the barrel when racking the slide but I cleaned and re lubed everything and it no longer does. However its still shooting inconsistently.
This metal frame/slide has a bit of a glossy finish, is there any way other than sandblasting to dull it a bit?

Thakns