FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[StrikeFreedom]

i use a stronger nozzle spring (from a bic lighter) since i messed up the stock one, but mainly because i also short stroked my gun. in a stock hicapa, gun will function fine without the nozzle spring because the slide stroke > nozzle stroke. the spring is there for aesthetic purpose, so you dont see a plastic tube in the chamber area. but in a short stroked gun, in my case slide stroke of 1", coupled with the pressure from magseal and bb/feed guide, theres no way the nozzle can return with a stock nozzle spring. thus, i would say a stronger nozzle spring is very useful im also using this spring from the bic lighter in between the two plunger pins.

during the blowback phase, the mag stops shooting out gas only when the bbu hits the valve knocker disconnector. the bbu/slide movement is mainly affected by the recoil and hammer spring. a stronger nozzle return spring is nowhere near the strength of these two, not to mention the weight of slide and bbu.


on another note, i recently snapped the hopup arm because i was acting dumb. this part, as many of you can imagine, is impossible to source. the absolute cheapest alternative is to buy a new madbull barrel/hopup assembly, but $50 to fix that little metal arm is still too much. so i went the diy route, ended up making one myself out of some piece of metal. hopup is entirely adjustable, it works great

[hunghingdailo]

I found this on another forum :

here is the link.

Another problem with the tightness of this join between the magazines and the gun is that the nozzle becomes damaged at its back edge due to the loading muzzle cutting into the rubber as it returns forward after a cycle of the slide. My old Marui 1911A1 ‘Eleanor’ has damaged magazine nozzles due to this problem, so it seems this is not a new fault.

And it was mentioned that one of the fix is to file away a part of the magazine where the mag catch will snap to lock the mag once inserted :

we have come up with a possible fix, namely to file away 0.5mm of the top edge of the catch groove located on the magazine itself. This then would lower the magazine in the weapon just enough to allow it room so the loading muzzle does not damage the rubber nozzle in the magazine but still retain a good enough seal so excessive gas is not released.
We feel this ‘fix’ is only to be attempted by those who feel competent to do such work as if you have just spent out your hard earnt cash the last thing you want to do is damage your new purchase.
With regards to this, the damaged nozzles can be replaced cheaply and easily if they start to let by badly.

I haven't experienced the damage yet... And seeing the pictures he posted scares me off that I was tempted to file either the magazine or the magazine catch.

Reading few posts above regarding the return of loading nozzle, it wasn't a flaw. So, I assume the mag lip and the loading nozzle is supposed to wear for the sake of 'normal' operation / better air seal?

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by hunghingdailo

I found this on another forum :

here is the link.



And it was mentioned that one of the fix is to file away a part of the magazine where the mag catch will snap to lock the mag once inserted :



I haven't experienced the damage yet... And seeing the pictures he posted scares me off that I was tempted to file either the magazine or the magazine catch.

Reading few posts above regarding the return of loading nozzle, it wasn't a flaw. So, I assume the mag lip and the loading nozzle is supposed to wear for the sake of 'normal' operation / better air seal?

I think it's because his BBU was loose so the nozzle head end was lower than the back of the BBU, causing the bit on the nozzle that pushes the bb up the feeding ramp to dig into the mag rubber.

It's the same thing that happened with my stock TM mag rubbers. I tightened the bbu screw at the back (the one that's supposed to be the firing pin) and switched my rubbers with the guarder air seal ones and that problem dissappeared.

[ichimaru gin]

Got some problem during skirmish yesterday. My slide was jammed 1/4 way from battery and when I checked for it, I found out the loading nozzle was in a position where bb bullet pushed it up.
The loading nozzle was for some reason not sliding the BB into the chamber and it looks like the nozzle has some wobble thats causing it to slide on top of the BB (Causing it to get stuck).

My gun is hi cap 5.1, loading nozzle is SD, BBU is stock marui and piston head is stock marui.
How to remedy this? is Nozzle wobbling normal?
I dont find any wear on my piston nor nozzle.

[StrikeFreedom]

How about grip and magazine catch? Perhaps the magazine isn't sitting high enough, thus the alignment issue.

[ILLusion]

I would check the feed extension on the nozzle that strips the following round off the magazine. When you had the previous problem, some wear or damage could have caused that extension to bend upwards, giving it enough room to ride over the BB now.

I once had to apply heat to that extension and readjust it lower. Be careful though, too low, and the feed path will not be smooth and you will experience frequent jamming.

Additional wear in other areas could also be causing the nozzle to move too freely, which is also not good.

[ichimaru gin]

@strike freedom: Mag alignment is not the problem I think. I had another SD nozzle before this (It broke, so I had to replace it with the one I am using) and the old SD nozzle performed flawlessly until it broke. The new one I am using is the one troubling me now. so I am suspecting flawed design or something.

@illusion : Tried that method and still jammed, I guess I was hesitant in applying heat to it, so the bending was not optimal. I would try to bend a bit more tonight.

Would replacing the BBU fix this problem? I am guessing maybe the aftermarket BBU by airsoft surgeon has larger piston's diameter, so the nozzle won't wobble so much.

[StrikeFreedom]

I doubt that'll help. My stock piston head and nozzle are working fine, and I believe the SD nozzle has a smaller inner diameter. I experienced a similar issue before though, turned out the loading tip was having too much friction with the BB, thus it stays in the forward position when the slide racks. As the slide returns the nozzle just jams. My fix was to sand the bottom of the loading tip, so it's a tad higher and smoother.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ichimaru gin

Would replacing the BBU fix this problem? I am guessing maybe the aftermarket BBU by airsoft surgeon has larger piston's diameter, so the nozzle won't wobble so much.

The Airsoft Surgeon's piston head o-ring actually has a lesser diameter than the Tokyo Marui piston head, so if anything, the SD nozzle will wobble more. One suggestion, is to swap for a larger o-ring to tighten it up a bit.

[simohayha]

tried assembling the my 1911 today and experienced some problem with the hammer assy.
hammer assy is Prog4, inner frame is TM and grip safety + hammer spring housing is nova.
the problem is as follow:
at first the dissconnector is too tight (have too much friction between sear and nova body) so i sand the flat side of it to make it thinner. now it can moves up and down like it should
the thing is when i test the hammer assy without the grip safety, everything seems normal. BUT when i attach the grip safety and slide lock. the hammer stops at half decock everytime i pull the trigger.
i never experience this kind of problem before, can anybody tell my what is causing this?

[StrikeFreedom]

It sounds like the trigger bow is hitting the grip safety (depressed), so it only travels far enough to disengage the main hook but not the half hook. Do you have a very long trigger pull? If so, you may have excessive slack between the bow & disconnector, and/or, between the disconnector & sear.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by simohayha

tried assembling the my 1911 today and experienced some problem with the hammer assy.
hammer assy is Prog4, inner frame is TM and grip safety + hammer spring housing is nova.
the problem is as follow:
at first the dissconnector is too tight (have too much friction between sear and nova body) so i sand the flat side of it to make it thinner. now it can moves up and down like it should
the thing is when i test the hammer assy without the grip safety, everything seems normal. BUT when i attach the grip safety and slide lock. the hammer stops at half decock everytime i pull the trigger.
i never experience this kind of problem before, can anybody tell my what is causing this?

Remove the half-cock pin, and all your problems will go away. The 1911's pin is in a different location than the Hi-Capa, causing the hammer to only drop half way if you install the pin.

Unfortunately, it's cheaper to just manufacture one style of hammer en masse, and Hi-Capa does make up the majority, so the hammer was engineered with the Hi-Capa crowd in mind. On the upside, the pin in the ProG4 / ILLusion Kinetics / Airsoft Surgeon hammers is removable to deactivate the half cock feature. Remove it.

[StrikeFreedom]

I've never had a 1911, but how come the half-cock pin wasn't causing an issue when his grip safety is off?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

I've never had a 1911, but how come the half-cock pin wasn't causing an issue when his grip safety is off?

Because when you depress the grip safety, it will engage the trigger/sear disconnect lever, which in turn will block the hammer's half-cock pin. The Hi-Capa's half cock pin engages sooner than the 1911, which is why that disconnect lever is different between the two platforms.

[simohayha]

is it the small stainless pin that's really hard to install in the first place? Prog4 hammer assy comes with 2 pin's; long one for the strut, and the short one is the ones that i have to remove right?