FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[fyra]

Originally Posted by ichimaru gin

My blowback housing on TM hi capa 5.1 kinda screwed up. The thread for the screw has worn up, so The screw won't tighten the housing anymore. WHat I do in the mean time is filling up the thread hole with super glue, so more material is built up in the thread hole, and then screw it back in. It is actually quite tight.
My friend has a spare TM 1911 blowback housing, Can I use this as a replacement?

Yes.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Green Synergy

Doing target practice with my WE 5.1 Type R Hi-Capa the other day, and the slide jammed back at the disassembly point. It happens sometimes due to the hammer, but then I noticed two things:

1. It kept doing this after every shot until slapped forward
2. The half-cock and grip safety stopped working.

So I took it down, and discovered to my horror that the plastic frame had cracked where screwed together under the safety, so the two back halves were spreading every time the hammer was cocked and there was a crack going through the right rearmost slide rail. So I guess I need a new frame now.

Any suggestions for an affordable metal frame? I did check ebairsoft, but I'm not sure if I'm actually allowed to import any, and I don't exactly have a very big budget for this sort of thing.

This is an extremely common problem with all the new plastic receiver WE Hi-Capa's. I've seen a 100% failure rate with this. There was very little to no research and development done when doing the manufacturing process change from metal to plastic.

There's a basic rule in airsoft and it applies just as equally to life: Buy cheap, buy twice.
Obviously, there is a limit, where there is an exponentially reduced rate of value (like... really, do you need a Maybach or a Phantom to get from point A to B?) But as far as durability goes, I think the new WE Hi-Capas present very poor value, as you're essentially buying a paperweight out of the box. These WILL break sooner, rather than later at this exact failure point you've noticed. Once it breaks, continuing to shoot the gun (or even dry fire the gun) will cause damage to other components (hammer hooks, sear, slide, and blowback unit are what come to the top of my head.) Dry firing the gun will speed up damage to this spot.

I'd recently purchased one of these WE Hi-Capas due to an increasing number of inquiries about replacements. I haven't even fired a single shot from this Hi-Capa yet, but I immediately noticed out that spot to be a major failure point.
The second thing I noticed, is that my "brand new" WE Hi-Capa already had a hairline fracture forming from the corner of this impact point inside the plastic itself.

Thankfully, replacement receivers can be found. The WE Hi-Capa's, being a 100% clone of the Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa can fit Marui compatible receivers. I haven't yet had time to swap out the receiver on the demo unit I'd received, but from first glance, it looks like a 100% compatible swap. A few of my buyers have also already done the swap with success.

Being a restricted component, it is an item prohibited from importation, which also means the metal receivers are not cheap. The cheapest you can probably find is either a very used and beat up KJW, WE, or Tokyo Marui receiver. Next up, is a used (but good-excellent) or new condition KJW or WE receiver, but it's very rare to find owners of these clone pistols to be upgrading the receiver. You will most commonly find Tokyo Marui receivers, which will give you very good value in terms of quality/durability/compatibility for your dollar. Beyond that, are high end custom receivers that cost upwards of $400 or higher.

You bought a cheap gun. Now you'll have to buy a replacement part that cost almost as much just to get it running again. Again: buy cheap, buy twice. Could have bought a Tokyo Marui to begin with, and it would've cost you less and lasted much longer.

Originally Posted by ichimaru gin

My blowback housing on TM hi capa 5.1 kinda screwed up. The thread for the screw has worn up, so The screw won't tighten the housing anymore. What I do in the mean time is filling up the thread hole with super glue, so more material is built up in the thread hole, and then screw it back in. It is actually quite tight.
My friend has a spare TM 1911 blowback housing, Can I use this as a replacement?

The two blowback units are exactly the same. Only the MEU and Detonics have a different blowback unit for this series of pistols.

[ILLusion]

New video just uploaded:

YouTube - Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa Assembly

[simohayha]

Hi, just got back from Hk and bought most of the items posted a few page back, with the help and advice of intinerious and illusion.
I noticed that the Prog4 BBU for 1911 have a screw hole on top and attached to the slide ( nova kit, SFA vickers) via the rear sight.(much like hi capa 4.3) not like the standard tm 1911 with somekind of metal plate screwed to the slide at the front side of the BBU.
the thing is that the rear sight i got from the nova kit have much smaller screw than standard tm/ the screw hole in the BBU.there's no way i can attach it to the slide.
do i need to buy a new set of sight, with standard size screw? how do you attach the nova kit sight ? (the one's i got have very small allen screw)
thanks

[ichimaru gin]

When I try to cock the gun (in slow motion) with the mag installed, I notice the nozzle was somewhat "sticking" to the chamber and then later pulled back to normal position (by the force of nozzle spring). Is this normal operation?
If not, how to remedy it? My gun is TM hi capa.
Thanks

[fyra]

Originally Posted by ichimaru gin

When I try to cock the gun (in slow motion) with the mag installed, I notice the nozzle was somewhat "sticking" to the chamber and then later pulled back to normal position (by the force of nozzle spring). Is this normal operation?
If not, how to remedy it? My gun is TM hi capa.
Thanks

Have you upgraded the loading nozzle? This is fairly common, and what's causing it is that the forward portion of the nozzle is slightly bigger than stock. Because of this, it can get "stuck" in the hop-up rubber.

If it gets really bad, it might make your gun cycle improperly, but you should be fine.

[ichimaru gin]

@fyra: yes I upgraded the nozzle to shooters design one. I've had my gun for almost 5 years and I never had any problems before. It is just I just realized that the nozzle is doing that thing cause a friend of mine was checking. Do you know any remedy to fix this?

[StrikeFreedom]

that is completely normal even with a stock hicapa. in fact you'll have a better air seal that way. essentially with the mag inserted, the magseal pushes the nozzle upwards so theres a tight seal between the two. subsequently, the nozzle tip pushes upwards against the hopup rubber, which is exactly why the nozzle sticks momentarily before the nozzle spring pulls it back.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ichimaru gin

@fyra: yes I upgraded the nozzle to shooters design one. I've had my gun for almost 5 years and I never had any problems before. It is just I just realized that the nozzle is doing that thing cause a friend of mine was checking. Do you know any remedy to fix this?

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

that is completely normal even with a stock hicapa. in fact you'll have a better air seal that way. essentially with the mag inserted, the magseal pushes the nozzle upwards so theres a tight seal between the two. subsequently, the nozzle tip pushes upwards against the hopup rubber, which is exactly why the nozzle sticks momentarily before the nozzle spring pulls it back.

I've got the upgraded SD nozzled too and it does the same thing. Like what StrikeFreedom said, this is meant to happen since the hop rubber (plus the magazine inserted into the gun, whether loaded or not) will have enough friction against the nozzle to work against the return spring from pulling the nozzle all the way back. It's not really an issue at all plus with a stock gun, I think iof you set the hop high enough the nozzle will stick as well.

Originally Posted by simohayha

Hi, just got back from Hk and bought most of the items posted a few page back, with the help and advice of intinerious and illusion.

No problem dude, glad I could help you out

[ichimaru gin]

Glad to hear that it is normal operation of the gun, so I dont have to fix anything anymore. Thanks guys

[turok_t]

If you want the air nozzle to retract earlier so that it doesnt stick as much, get a stronger nozzle spring.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by turok_t

If you want the air nozzle to retract earlier so that it doesnt stock as much, get a stronger nozzle spring.

Why would anyone want that to happen? The nozzle being stuck 'in battery' is the normal operation of the blow back mechanism. Like what StrikeFreedom said, it's actually a bonus rather than a problem.

I know you're only 'suggesting' the above, but I think it's a useless suggestion nonetheless because if you actually install a stronger nozzle return spring, the gas used to propel the bb and the blow back mechanism will require additional energy to perform the blow back action (albeit a small addition of energy required) and it will decrease the overall efficiency of the gun itself.

Note that no matter the strength of the nozzle return spring, the nozzle will nonetheless go back into its original position once the slide moves all the way backwards for the blow back action because the stroke of the slide movement is larger than the stroke of which the nozzle can slide along the blow back unit. Hence using a stronger nozzle return spring does nothing but increase the gas usage per shot.

EDIT: the air seal between the hop bucking and the nozzle head would decrease as well since a stronger return spring will reduce the effect of any friction holding the hop bucking and the nozzle head together when the gun is fired. You'll probably see a gas plume (or a bigger gas plume if you already have it in a stock gun) coming out of the ejection port; which is wasted gas.

[turok_t]

It might be a "useless" suggestion for you, but it might be helpful for others who have a short stroking setup or have a nozzle thats very sticky with the hop up. I currently use a stronger spring and I experienced NO loss in FPS or gas efficiency. I can shoot between 45-50 rounds per filled magazine.

Originally Posted by intinerious

Why would anyone want that to happen? The nozzle being stuck 'in battery' is the normal operation of the blow back mechanism. Like what StrikeFreedom said, it's actually a bonus rather than a problem.

Well obviosuly the nozzle being stuck "in battery" is normal, no one has refute this concept. This is required for the next round to chamber. In fact, the purpose I use a stronger nozzle return spring is to assist the RETURN of the nozzle spring back to battery faster during the blowback cycle. StrikeFreedom did not comment on nozzle being stuck "in battery" is normal. He only indicated how the magazine pushes up the air nozzle to facilitate its seal with the hop up. He noted that it is a "bonus" because it helps to form a better air seal, he did not mention how the nozzle being stuck "in battery" in normal operation.

Originally Posted by intinerious

I know you're only 'suggesting' the above, but I think it's a useless suggestion nonetheless because if you actually install a stronger nozzle return spring, the gas used to propel the bb and the blow back mechanism will require additional energy to perform the blow back action (albeit a small addition of energy required) and it will decrease the overall efficiency of the gun itself.

EDIT: the air seal between the hop bucking and the nozzle head would decrease as well since a stronger return spring will reduce the effect of any friction holding the hop bucking and the nozzle head together when the gun is fired. You'll probably see a gas plume (or a bigger gas plume if you already have it in a stock gun) coming out of the ejection port; which is wasted gas.

How will additional energy be required? Before the gun is fired, the air nozzle sits snuggly within the hop up chamber. The air nozzle spring, regardless of its strength, does not do anything at this point since it is not compressed. Moreover, the air nozzle spring does not affect the "friction holding between the hop bucking and nozzle". When the gun is fired, all the gas is initially directed forward to propel the bb which is independent on the nozzle return spring. Only once when the floating valve shuts, does the gas direct backwards to the rear of the air nozzle pushing the slide backwards. At this point NO gas is directed forward since the floating valve is shut. The blowback (i.e. slide moving rearwards) continues regardless of the air nozzle spring. The air nozzle spring only helps to return the air nozzle to battery.

Originally Posted by intinerious

Note that no matter the strength of the nozzle return spring, the nozzle will nonetheless go back into its original position once the slide moves all the way backwards

Not true. If your nozzle is very sticky, like the SD POM I had, it will NOT return back to its original position. For people who short stroked their gun and if the nozzle is also sticky (possible cause can be swelling of the hop up), the nozzle may also not return to battery or as you suggested in its "original position."

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by turok_t

It might be a "useless" suggestion for you, but it might be helpful for others who have a short stroking setup or have a nozzle thats very sticky with the hop up. I currently use a stronger spring and I experienced NO loss in FPS or gas efficiency. I can shoot between 45-50 rounds per filled magazine.

Well obviosuly the nozzle being stuck "in battery" is normal, no one has refute this concept. This is required for the next round to chamber. In fact, the purpose I use a stronger nozzle return spring is to assist the RETURN of the nozzle spring back to battery faster during the blowback cycle. StrikeFreedom did not comment on nozzle being stuck "in battery" is normal. He only indicated how the magazine pushes up the air nozzle to facilitate its seal with the hop up. He noted that it is a "bonus" because it helps to form a better air seal, he did not mention how the nozzle being stuck "in battery" in normal operation.

How will additional energy be required? Before the gun is fired, the air nozzle sits snuggly within the hop up chamber. The air nozzle spring, regardless of its strength, does not do anything at this point since it is not compressed. Moreover, the air nozzle spring does not affect the "friction holding between the hop bucking and nozzle". When the gun is fired, all the gas is initially directed forward to propel the bb which is independent on the nozzle return spring. Only once when the floating valve shuts, does the gas direct backwards to the rear of the air nozzle pushing the slide backwards. At this point NO gas is directed forward since the floating valve is shut. The blowback (i.e. slide moving rearwards) continues regardless of the air nozzle spring. The air nozzle spring only helps to return the air nozzle to battery.

Not true. If your nozzle is very sticky, like the SD POM I had, it will NOT return back to its original position. For people who short stroked their gun and if the nozzle is also sticky (possible cause can be swelling of the hop up), the nozzle may also not return to battery or as you suggested in its "original position."

Never thought about short stroking the guns. I apologise for that, although I would've appreciated it if you wrote it into your previous post

I said that the 'sticking' of the nozzle is normal since my stock MEU did the same thing with an empty or filled mag, due to the pressure exerted by either the feed guide on the mag or the bbs at the mag lips. Even with the hop turned off the nozzle would stick as long as I had a mag in.

I understand the theory behind the first part where the bb is being propelled. No loss of FPS there since the nozzle return spring doesn't do anything like you said. But since you're working against the spring when the floating valve shuts, and if you have a stronger return spring in the BBU, then more energy is required to compress the return spring as this is the second part of the pistol's operation. The gas in the mag is the energy source for the blow back, so more gas would be needed to compress the stronger return spring as the nozzle should be right above the mag until the return spring is fully compressed.

EDIT: yikes, nearly forgot to mention this....you said there's no loss of gas efficiency. But I believe there IS a loss, just not significant enough for you to be able to notice it. More energy will be required to work against a stronger return spring, hence more energy is required from the gas used for the blowback. But given that the energy required to compress a stronger return spring may be so little compared to the energy output from the mag, the gas lost for the extra energy to compress the spring is negligible, which basically makes my previous post irrelevant in the practical situation. Still, I'm standing by the fact that there IS a decrease in gas efficiency, no matter how small it is. :P

I don't think the SD nozzle is 'sticky'. I believe that the SD nozzle's inner diameter is actually smaller than the stock TM nozzle, hence there is more friction between the piston lip/o-ring than if you were to use the stock nozzle. There's a larger, noticable gap between the stock piston lip and the stock nozzle compared with the smaller gap between the SD nozzle and the stock piston lip.

Anyway, I think I came off a bit too aggressive when I said 'useless' because I never thought about short stroking, so I apologise again. I guess it's because many of you are IPSC players and the faster you can shoot the gun the better? I'm only into skirmishing atm so short stroking never occured to me as something I'd do to my gun.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

i use a stronger nozzle spring (from a bic lighter) since i messed up the stock one, but mainly because i also short stroked my gun. in a stock hicapa, gun will function fine without the nozzle spring because the slide stroke > nozzle stroke. the spring is there for aesthetic purpose, so you dont see a plastic tube in the chamber area. but in a short stroked gun, in my case slide stroke of 1", coupled with the pressure from magseal and bb/feed guide, theres no way the nozzle can return with a stock nozzle spring. thus, i would say a stronger nozzle spring is very useful

Argh why do you guys even bother shortstroking? I can't shoot fast enough for short stroking to work on my MEU....am I really that slow?