February 2nd, 2012, 21:43 | #646 |
aka GhillieSnipes
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Although I put it in the secondline thread, I thought my Rack deserved a post here too. Everything except the admin is ex DG.
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February 3rd, 2012, 00:10 | #647 |
Ahhh so you're Dingo.
Nice piece! Actually I don't think I've ever seen a Crye RACK before, although I've heard it mentionned a few times.
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WTS: King Arms/Madbull Mk18 Mod1 - VFC Mk17 SCAR-H midcap mags, FDE - VFC Mk17 SCAR-H + PWS rail, FDE WTB/WTT: CSOR gear, BFG, Tyr, Crye, etc |
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February 3rd, 2012, 00:29 | #648 |
aka GhillieSnipes
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Correct Got the name after I made this account.
It isnt very widely used, but I like it because its EXTREMELY light, and not restrictive at all. Some guys liked it, and some didnt. To this day Ive only seen one other besides mine. Ill weigh it in a sec here to see how much it weighs unloaded. |
February 4th, 2012, 20:00 | #649 |
To buy or Not to buy... http://www.ebairsoft.com/jump-fast-h...r1-p-5286.html
I'm sure the colors won't match my 6094 all that well but it will probly match my Combat Set. What do you guys think? |
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February 4th, 2012, 20:18 | #650 |
Banned
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The paint job looks so shitty. Plus the quality of those helmets are crap.
i would suggest save up for a real ops core one. oh also if your planning on running nvgs the mounts wont work in the replicas without mods. If im running a couple of thousands of dollars on my head i would spend a little more on the helmet. |
February 4th, 2012, 20:26 | #651 |
Cobalt Caliber
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Plus real ops core is more durable and will have better straps/buckles to secure the helmet that is holding the NVG to your head.
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February 4th, 2012, 20:35 | #652 |
No plans at all for NVG. Out of my budget range . It's just airsoft and not many night games here... It mainly just for looks.
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February 4th, 2012, 20:44 | #653 |
Cobalt Caliber
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Still more durable a real ops core will last you 3 or 4 times the years as the clone so the money evens out.
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February 4th, 2012, 20:55 | #654 |
Yeah but i dont have 300$ right now to spend on just 1 helmet PLUS the cost of a paintjob. Also have no clue where to get an AOR1 paintjob for my MK18 and P226.
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February 4th, 2012, 21:01 | #655 |
Do the paintjob yourself with stencils... same for the helmet and guns. I you want my honest opinion, these water transfer things are ugly 99% of the time (Milan's lid being the 1% that looks good, LOL)
Check what Ferro did on his 2001 or what Milan's ex MP7 looked like... Or, well just what actual SEALs did (cf. NRA's Life of Duty photoshoot). They're much better.
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WTS: King Arms/Madbull Mk18 Mod1 - VFC Mk17 SCAR-H midcap mags, FDE - VFC Mk17 SCAR-H + PWS rail, FDE WTB/WTT: CSOR gear, BFG, Tyr, Crye, etc Last edited by Conker; February 4th, 2012 at 21:06.. |
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February 4th, 2012, 21:26 | #656 |
I am probly the worst guy on earth with anything that has to do with Arts. I am totally willing to pay someone, but no chance in hell i'll even TRY myself :P Si t bon pour ca Conker jpeut te payer :P
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February 4th, 2012, 21:28 | #657 |
Banned
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Paint job is around $20 plus you can paint other after with the same pattern. But takes a couple of hours if you wanna do it right. But totally worth it in the end.
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February 4th, 2012, 21:32 | #658 |
20$ thats it? Id be willing to pay that Anyday.
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February 5th, 2012, 13:05 | #659 |
Perroz Designs
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1) make your stencils on the computer (I made 7 - 10 different patterns, ranging from big to small).
2) print them out and glue them to a semi-rigid cardboard (ie. a file folder, etc.) 3) cut each stencil out after glued to the cardboard with a sharp x-acto knife. 4) spray your first "layer" of digital shapes to your desired object/surface using a dark brown. 5) let fully dry, then lightly dust over the first layer of shapes with a lighter tan color to make it look subdued. 6) repeat step 4 - this will be your second layer of digital shapes. Hope that helps - happy painting!
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Last edited by MilanWG; February 5th, 2012 at 19:39.. |
February 5th, 2012, 14:10 | #660 |
Banned
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The bottom one is mine. Sucker too 3 hours to finish. It feels like it not even done.
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