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February 10th, 2014, 22:02 | #616 |
Michael,
I can answer some of your questions: 1) are you able to VISIBLY IDENTIFY the difference between a stock and (let's just say) a GUARDER recoil or hammer spring? i ask because i have about 6 or so springs that i am unsure of the manufacturer of. some examples are below. perhaps there is a test to see the tension? perhaps color or length (although almost all identical, i can see some SLIGHT variation, it could also be my aging eyes...) From my experience, Guarder has two kinds of hammer springs: One which is sold by itself, the other which is sold with the recoil rod/spring as shown here: and here: Based on your pictures, this is my guess: I can tell you that they are not Shooter's Design hammer springs though. I had the best results with Shooter's Design hammer springs, since the tension on the springs don't weaken over time. Guarder also has really strong hammer springs given by the angle of the two prongs, but whether the tension will be maintained in the future is uncertain. 2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity. Yes, you can do this to increase the ROF by using a second stage spring in series with your primary recoil spring. Or you can use a full length recoil spring with a 1/2 to 1/3 of another spring. However, you will need the plastic "C" clip to fit between the springs. The more springs you put, the more you short stroke the gun will be. However, if you put too much, your slide will not lock when the magazine is empty, and you may have issues chamber the next round. You can use one of the aftermarket upgrade guide rods (Shooters Design, Guarder) and use two springs fitted between the "C" clip. You can also add buffers, or if you really want to go extreme, a lot of japanese racegun users insert a tube over a portion of the recoil spring to increase cycling speed. Here is a picture of the two stage recoil system for glocks. As you can see in the picture below, the spring is short, but very stiff which helps to recoil the slide back to battery. You can put your stock spring inside the rod to go along with this second stage spring. Last edited by turok_t; February 11th, 2014 at 01:06.. |
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February 11th, 2014, 01:31 | #617 |
Jagdalex
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Just ordered this for my Tm G18C: http://tokyomodelcompany.kancart.com.../10061#!detail
It is the new model, the valve is not metal made anymore... wonder if it has to do with the high cycling of the full auto and the metal valve that could damage the nozzle. Anyway the older full Metal version is sold out everywhere. Question for you guys. I heavily modified my G18C recently (went for PGC slide, guns modify aluminum bbu, zero hammer and AIP hammer set... I went for Ipsc shooting, the other day (the first time after assembling everything) and everything was working fine. Now last weekend all of a sudden even with the selector on semi it was shooting on full auto sometimes. I was pissed. Now I came back home and tried in putting back some of the original hammer assembly parts combined with the AIP ones (the reason I upgraded originally was because of a worn full auto sear) So I finally found that with all the AIP parts save for the guns modify zero hammer (I put back the original hammer instead) , the gun was shooting perfectly fine again and only in semi while on semi. That being said can someone explains me why the zero hammer is causing that?
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Last edited by Jagd; February 11th, 2014 at 01:33.. |
February 11th, 2014, 02:11 | #618 | |
It's probably not interfacing with the BBU properly.
My guess is that the BBU is pushed a little to high and considering the zero hammer has MINIMAL contact with the BBU, it won't to lock the semi-sear... I dunno. I have to see. Quote:
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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February 11th, 2014, 02:16 | #619 | |
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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February 11th, 2014, 02:27 | #620 | ||
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1). Take out ALL of these upgrades you've installed 2). Re-install your stock components 3). Re-install your upgrade components 1 at a time. Do this until you find the incompatible part. Then modify said part accordingly. You Marui magazine is acting wonky because the system you're trying to use it on is not its primary/intended use. Quote:
My Guess is that the notch on the magazine that the mag catch "catches" sits higher than your KJW mags. ...and again, i think I've also stated this before, you have to allow clearance for the firing pin relative to the magazine blowoff valve. That's why you're getting a "strike failure". THe firing pin MUST have some room to gain velocity for the strike. Apilar already provided the solution. You must shave a few millimeters off of the firing pin to allow for the clearance.
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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February 11th, 2014, 03:28 | #621 |
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1) are you able to VISIBLY IDENTIFY the difference between a stock and (let's just say) a GUARDER recoil or hammer spring? i ask because i have about 6 or so springs that i am unsure of the manufacturer of. some examples are below. perhaps there is a test to see the tension? perhaps color or length (although almost all identical, i can see some SLIGHT variation, it could also be my aging eyes...) Recoil Springs- the only way that I am able to identify which one is stock and which is aftermarket are: Color- the color of the stock recoil spring is usually like a... worn greyish tone. some aftermarket manufacturers have stainless steel ones or ones coated with like black electrolyte paint to keep the tension in the spring. Length- the stock one is usually shorter than most other springs. Guarder's for example is longer and has more coils... Tension( or flimsiness)- the stock recoil spring can bend much easier than the latter spring. Diameter- some aftermarket springs hug the recoil rod tighter while the stock ones usually are more loose around it. Hammer springs- Man....I hate playing this game. 90% of the time I lose. Everytime LOL. For the hammer springs, I usually just look for color. Usually the stock hammer spring will be black. Other springs like Guarder springs, have like a... "worn paint" look to them. The Guarder one that they sell separately from the recoil spring kit is advertised as "tempered steel". I'm sure you know how that looks like. Shooter's Design springs, in contrast for example, have a dull stainless steel finish to them. 2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity. I remember when they first came out with these "Dual Recoil Springs" (DRS) back in '94 (I think), they were trying to pass it up to consumers that by having a DRS system, it reduced recoil. Many were skeptic because of the Glock 26's were able to chamber different rounds... which meant that energy outputs would be different with different types of ammunition....which meant that the recoil spring would have had to adjust to make this claim true. Well...maybe not I guess. From a marketing perspective, if even it reduced recoil by like a fraction of what it was, then I guess you can call it true. lol. Those smart bastards. But I digress. But many owners claimed that it hardly made any difference at all and that there were no real evidence (mathematical or practical) to support their claim. Then they came out of a bunch of other reasons why they used the system. One was because of the length of guide rod and using a single spring set up, the spring won't have room to coil. This lead people to believe that the recoil wasn't actually reduced (or increased) as a single spring set up would have to absorb the same amount of recoil energy as a DRS since the weight, projectile and distance of the slide's travel remained constant (or the same). The only difference would have been is that at some point during the rear stroke, the DSR spring system would have had to gather enough resistance between the two springs to physically stop the slide and return it back to battery. Then the Gen 4s came out and totally changed how the DRS system works. LOL. Anyways, in airsoft terms, a "bounce back" spring is beneficiary for shortening the stroke of the slide....for whatever reason. Shortening the stroke leads to faster chambering of BB, faster trigger reset and thus faster follow-up shots. For a Marui Glock in particular, it's almost like installing shock buffers. For me, I use the DRS system to protect the front bolt screw from breaking....well...most of the time anyways. It acts as a brace for when the slide comes to a stop on the rear stroke. THe other benefit is actually to prevent the recoil springs from "over coiling" or "spinning" (I don't know how to describe it) and unscrewing the top of aftermarket guide rods. That's why some full length rods that don't use the DRS system come with those bearings at the end. lol. I don't know how it does it. But it does. One other thing is reduced rear slide impact (I hesitate to use "recoil power") which translates to reduced FELT-recoil power at the wrists. In airsoft this really doesn't matter since...well...let's be honest here...they're toys and recoil is next to nothing compared to real guns. The only airsoft guys that really care (based on my observations) about having this reduced felt recoil are the competitors that need fast target acquisition and re-acquisition. 3) have you ever fitted an aluminum BBH and consequent Piston Head from a G17 into the smaller G26 counterpart? this is something i have always pondered. Yes, A Glock 17 piston head should fit the G26. Remember, the G26 was the father of the Marui Glocks. The Glock 17 was based on this design. It like how the KSC Glocks were the very first iteration of the System 7...uhh...system(?). lol. I think the only discernable difference in their piston head designs were that a G26 used the "piston cup" rather then the more modern piston head with the o-ring seal.
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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February 11th, 2014, 05:18 | #622 | |
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Does the use of dual recoil spring mitigate or solve the problem of broken frame front posts? |
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February 11th, 2014, 05:42 | #623 | |
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February 11th, 2014, 07:46 | #624 | |
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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February 11th, 2014, 10:18 | #625 |
Jagdalex
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Sure... on DEN Trinity it is labeled as "Firefly floating valve new gen" so it SHOULD be as good as the original metal one. The plastic looks like derlin, a highly resistent/durable kind of plastic.
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February 11th, 2014, 11:11 | #626 | |
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my question was based on an idea of slide return: i don't so much care about the strength of the front screw post on the frame, nor am i using anything for competition of any sort. i simply plink, and build these for my son. he loves them, and i love tinkering: win win if you ask me! back to the reason for my question: i LOVE a HARD HITTING slide as it returns to battery. Having owned many a RS (G26, G27, PPS 9mm, PT111 Mil Pro 3rd gen, XD sub compact 9, Hi Point C9, SR9c, etc) one of my all time favorite features of a side arm is the positive, heavy THUD of a slide returning into battery after loading, releasing the slide lock, etc. now, that does certainly add an amount of vanity to my firearm experience, but the real reason is the forward motion of a slide can actually cause a person to drop a pistol easily, as the natural purchase on said pistol is less monitored by (let's just say, a 10 yr old child learning proper firearm control and safety) the user as recoil is absorbed by a stronger hold on the grip. (i hope this makes sense) with all that being said, i would like this pistol to INCREASE the forward "COIL" (if RE- Coil is backward movement, i'll use COIL as forward... makes sense to me lol) thus my asking. Quote:
what intrigues me is the length of the head on the G17 aluminum piston position. see the RED section here.... now, this to me fills the rear of the BBH better than what the G26 uses, in turn leaving less OPEN space, and therefore no room for air to go aside from FORWARD to the BB, as well as pushing the BBH (and therefore slide) back with more force. in theory, this could increase not only FPS, but also felt recoil and coil as mentioned above. another win win if my theory is correct. oh, one more thing that JUST HAPPENED.... i was lucky enough to get my slide stuck on the frame. yeah, it appears the hammer/sear are in the upright position, making the slide stuck on. this just occurred as i was taking the photo above. so now i have to figure out what really made this happen, get it apart, and fix the issue. all this for a darn pic. FML.
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My KSC G26 Build My "As close to real steel" TM/KJW G26 Build My "Anti-Snag/Smooth" TM/KJW G26 Build THE BEST 1911 PARTS ARE SOLD HERE Last edited by MikeMcNair; February 11th, 2014 at 11:14.. |
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February 11th, 2014, 12:42 | #627 | |
Here'e the pics.
The marui mag is that on the right and I must say that wear signs are so obvious also because I just tried the coke can method (with no succes) The bb unit is very solid but the plastic nozzle is a little loose moving on right and left but I have inspected inside the frame with slide closed and it doesn't move. I have an Airsoft Surgeon nozzle but I can't use it because the inside sping is mounted differently forn the KJW and I need a little plastic cage which I think is in the Marui nozzle caricare immagini Quote:
Last edited by kar120c; February 11th, 2014 at 12:50.. |
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February 11th, 2014, 14:33 | #628 |
quick question KAR120c:
are you referring to part # 9 in this photo? (the "cage") if so, i have to tell you that i have purchased new 6 or 7 TM and KJW G26's and NEVER have i had one come with part#9, instead it is a small pin that goes in the nozzle. (it is apparently supposed to be the "cage" and a screw holding it, although i have yet to see one in real life. sounds odd, but it's true. anyway, your magazines have inconsistent wear on them, which i find odd. i will look closer at the pictures shortly. |
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February 11th, 2014, 15:23 | #629 |
I wonder why they changed the valve. I will order one too, maybe its annarea thats not high stress
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February 11th, 2014, 15:26 | #630 |
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Last edited by kar120c; February 11th, 2014 at 15:51.. |
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