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DangerWerx KWA NS2 CQB Valve

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Old November 19th, 2012, 16:55   #31
p.phresh
 
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Just wanted to say i received in the mail. They are made beautifully, and really light. I haven't had a chance to put it into an MP7 yet for testing but for first impressions they are really nicely made.

Good Job Dynamo, and thanks.
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Old November 19th, 2012, 17:13   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p.phresh View Post
Just wanted to say i received in the mail. They are made beautifully, and really light. I haven't had a chance to put it into an MP7 yet for testing but for first impressions they are really nicely made.

Good Job Dynamo, and thanks.
Agreed. Looks very nice. Will be installing it sometime this week, looking forward to testing it.
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 13:17   #33
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here's a question... between an npas or a rocket valve... which would be a better solution?

The mp7 shoots 400 out of the box, it's a bit hard if say someone wanted to run it cqb... an npas would be great and all, but how hard is it to access the npas to adjust it? Is it an adjustment you can get from outside the gun or do you have to tear it apart, in which case, a rocket valve swap is pretty much the same at that point.
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 14:32   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lurkingknight View Post
here's a question... between an npas or a rocket valve... which would be a better solution?

The mp7 shoots 400 out of the box, it's a bit hard if say someone wanted to run it cqb... an npas would be great and all, but how hard is it to access the npas to adjust it? Is it an adjustment you can get from outside the gun or do you have to tear it apart, in which case, a rocket valve swap is pretty much the same at that point.
the NPAS valve comes with a adjustment tool that you feed down the barrel. it's basically a long ass allen key with the center bored out with a second smaller allen key inside. it's a good way to scratch the inside of your barrel. also unless you thread lock the valve, it will self adjust during use. so it's ability for adjustment is moot, once thread locked it nothing more than a heavy valve stuck with a setting. if you want to change it after thread locking it, you'll have to disassemble the gun and heat the valve to release the threads.
the valve it self is half steel half aluminum. it's made of 3 parts - the valve body (aluminum), adjustment shaft (threaded steel rod) and the valve base (threaded steel base that is threaded onto the steel core/shaft). it's a fairly heavy valve, and has already broken the cross pin that holds the valve in place in my friend's MP7. you want the valve to be as light as possible, as a heavy valve can brake that cross pin, as well as delay the closure of the valve. delaying the valve closure timing has two effects. 1 - increases the amount of gas that blows out the barrel after the BB has exited. 2 - lowers the rate of fire. the sooner the valve closes, that sooner the bolt starts to cycle.

if i could have molds made, i would make valves out of light weight hollowed plastic.
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Last edited by Dynamo; November 22nd, 2012 at 14:36..
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 14:44   #35
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To me...the NPAS is still a PITA since you have to jam/stop the valve from rotating while you're mucking about with that long adjustment rod. It's actually easier to pop the bolt out and just a plain allen key and your fingernail/something to adjust the valve.

The "allen" key RATech provided was less that useless. The hex end of it was too small for the key and the screw is something odd sized (I had to file an allen key that was close to get it to seat into the screw). Add to that having to turn your hopup off and then stuff it down your barrel...it's a way to do it, but not the greatest for preserving your setup.

Also...since the NPAS is very much a full cylinder (like Dynamo's valve or the Japanese version of the valve) it cuts down the velocity a lot. I've seen more than one drop from stock 400fps to sub 300 (250-270) range. Essentially if you use the RATech NPAS you have it set at maximum velocity to give you nice/decent CQB fps...so what difference does it make to have it adjustable?
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 17:01   #36
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so you guys would much rather just put in a light weight rocket valve and be done with it and have no adjustment at all?
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 17:16   #37
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The most convenient thing to do is to have a separate bolt (more convenient than fiddling with a lousy built NPAS setup).
- pop the two pins out...pull out stock/bolt...swap in other bolt...close it up and put the pins back.

Next least-work...swap nozzles
Get another nozzle (can't remember the name...Angry Fighter?...Jugglez at airsoftparts.ca got them for me)...install the other valve and an extra spring, cross pin it.
When you want to swap...do the above +
- undo the 4 small screws that hold the front of the bolt on...pull the nozzle out...unhook the two retention springs from the nozzle...swap nozzle...hook the springs back on.
(kind of a PITA)

If you're going to switch valves...the at a minimum you've got to do the above +
- punch the cross pin out of the nozzle...swap the float valve...replace cross pin...hook it back up and put the bolt back together.
(bigger PITA)

If the RATech NPAS worked at adjusting velocities between 300-400 fps instead of sub-200-maybe mid-300 then it'd be totally viable if you had an allen key to use.
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 17:35   #38
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interesting. I do see lower power bolts available, and if it's that easy then I probably would go that route, as I dont' think it's that much more than the npas in terms of cost.
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 17:42   #39
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The only reason I see having my NPAS for is if I choose to get a longer inner barrel, but at that point I'd still have to pull the bolt out to adjust the NPAS, because the adjustment tool would be too short to reach down a longer inner barrel.

When I first got my NPAS i thought that i'd be able to tune my gun closer to the 350 FPS mark, but it maxed out at 330 for me. Had I known this i would have gone with a rocket valve swap to save money.
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 18:16   #40
lurkingknight
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if I go the separate cqb bolt route, would it still be a good idea to get dynamo's lightweight valves to replace the stock ones?
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 03:23   #41
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if you are running a CQB bolt then you wont need it. if you are running the CQB bolt with a long barrel then maybe you might.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lurkingknight View Post
if I go the separate cqb bolt route, would it still be a good idea to get dynamo's lightweight valves to replace the stock ones?
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Old November 28th, 2012, 19:11   #42
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okay I tried the low flow valve on a stock MP7 and it's shooting at about 290-300 FPS with 0.2g BBs.

I need to test it a few more times though, I couldn't get consistent readings due to the limited amount of space I have to test the FPS.

I'll try to get some more readings tomorrow evening.

Has anyone else installed and chrono'd their guns? What readings are you getting?
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Old November 28th, 2012, 19:22   #43
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$20 bucks looking like that? Does anyone have one cheaper?
Ratech kjw npas is $10... Kjw and ksc npas are the same, keep it at fully closed and its the same as danger werx

//sorry for odd autocorrect words by my phone//
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Old November 28th, 2012, 19:25   #44
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Originally Posted by kullwarrior View Post
Ratech kjw npas is $10... Kjw and ksc npas are the same, keep it at fully closed and its the same as danger werx

//sorry for odd autocorrect words by my phone//
Or support your local airsoft enthusiasts and buy a Dynamo valve for $10!!
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Old November 30th, 2012, 14:54   #45
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So I did some more testing last night, and with a room temperature mag, fully gassed, I was shooting (0.20g BBs) 290 FPS, which eventually settled with cool down and started shooting consistently at about 275 FPS. ROF was a staggering 15 RPS!!

Dynamo, can you make it a bit smaller to get the output closer to 330 FPS?
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