FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[Hata]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

Every once in a while my gun wouldn't shoot a BB. It'll still shoot and cycle, but no BB comes out. As a result, 2 BBs are chambered. At first I thought it's either the barrel or hop up. Turns out it was caused by the nozzle internals, and I was using the SD POM set. I don't know what they are called, but it seems that the valve inside failed to return to the initial position, causing all the gas to blow back instead of propelling the BB first. I am now running the SD POM nozzle with stock internals, and it works.

I have similar problem on mine even I replaced it with King Arms floating valve...

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

Every once in a while my gun wouldn't shoot a BB. It'll still shoot and cycle, but no BB comes out. As a result, 2 BBs are chambered. At first I thought it's either the barrel or hop up. Turns out it was caused by the nozzle internals, and I was using the SD POM set. I don't know what they are called, but it seems that the valve inside failed to return to the initial position, causing all the gas to blow back instead of propelling the BB first. I am now running the SD POM nozzle with stock internals, and it works.

This is a well documented issue. I'm actually surprised you're able to get the next shot off, but I suppose that depends on how powerful your gas flow is.

With my magazines, any setup using all SD internals will cause the cylinder bulb to jam in to the nozzle so hard that it's unable to come out at all. You'd have to disassemble the entire upper assembly to poke out the bulb.

The SD POM cylinder set is designed for use with HFC134a, so they are not aware of this problem. It appears to be a design/dimensioning error with the lip on the top of the bulb that's responsible for stopping it from going too deep in to the nozzle. Unfortunately, it's a tiny bit too small and ends up jamming in.

Originally Posted by Hata

I have similar problem on mine even I replaced it with King Arms floating valve...

Have you tried with the Marui valve?

[Hata]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Have you tried with the Marui valve?

Just put the stock one back last night, will try it this weekend.
Report back later.

[turok_t]

I just got my SD POM set. So I should use the stock Marui valve instead then right??

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by turok_t

I just got my SD POM set. So I should use the stock Marui valve instead then right??

Well... it's already been documented for 4 years now, multiple times. Why question it?
Feel free to use the SD one and let us know what happens, just to reinforce what's already known.

Or maybe you'll find that they've changed their manufacturing process, which is what I've been really looking forward to.

[Shirley]

Bottom line, quit cheaping out on quality parts.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

Bottom line, quit cheaping out on quality parts.

Uhh... what?

SD is pretty good stuff IMHO... they just screwed up on the floating valve...

[Shirley]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Uhh... what?

SD is pretty good stuff IMHO... they just screwed up on the floating valve...

I meant putting on a aftermarket floating valve than to stick with TM. Even though TM floating valve output more power, it will still break. LOL

[Hata]

It *seems* temp fix the problem with stock floating valve and just about 10 fps lost when compare to the one from King Arms.

I guess will stick with stock floating valve for now.

[juicy]

Quick question to save me a whole bunch of work - are Hi-Capa and 1911 valve knocker springs compatible?

I figured I might as well ask before I start taking shit apart, you know?

[johnnysasaki]

Originally Posted by juicy

Quick question to save me a whole bunch of work - are Hi-Capa and 1911 valve knocker springs compatible?

I figured I might as well ask before I start taking shit apart, you know?

Also, since Illusion knows best, do 1911 hammers work with Hi-Capa (5.1 specifically, but shouldn't matter right?)? This is, you know, without modification—i.e. do out of the box 1911 hammers fit on a stock Hi-Capa?

Sidenote: I need to buy a part from you, Illusion, please check your inbox!

[juicy]

ILLusion's apparently going to be away for a while, as he's doing some major move.

As to my earlier question about valve knocker springs - never mind, I'll figure that out later on my own time; I've already missed the chance to secure a really damn good deal (for me), lol.

New question: I'm actually thinking of replacing my MEU's hammer with something that isn't so... potmetally, for a lack of a better word (damn clones). I don't have enough confidence in my sear to be grinding up against a harder metal... are there individual sears out there on the market? I recall one or two (can't remember the brand names now... PDI was one of them, I think) but they seem to be out of stock everywhere - more likely out of production. Asides from just buying a new 1911/MEU hammer set, are there any sears that are sold alone? Spoon feed me, puhlease!

[juicy]

Yay: http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=271384

Not sure if this is a repost, but it's frigging amazing if you're taking apart at TM 1911 for the first time! Gah, if only I had spent more time perusing the internetzors when I first started taking shit apart, my life would have been so much easier.

[m61a1]

Hi..in this video YouTube- RA-TECH Custom Marui HI-CAPA 5.1.mpg they grind flat all the slide lug and claimed the movement is more smooth...is this true ?

thanx

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by juicy

Quick question to save me a whole bunch of work - are Hi-Capa and 1911 valve knocker springs compatible?

The springs are different and incompatible.

Originally Posted by johnnysasaki

Also, since Illusion knows best, do 1911 hammers work with Hi-Capa (5.1 specifically, but shouldn't matter right?)? This is, you know, without modification—i.e. do out of the box 1911 hammers fit on a stock Hi-Capa?

Sidenote: I need to buy a part from you, Illusion, please check your inbox!

Most 1911 hammers fit the Hi-Capa, but it may be manufacturer dependent. I know KM hammers require some modification to the half-cock pin to fit back and forth between the single stack and double stack.

Also, some specific models (like the oldschool government model big lever hammer) won't fit modern extended beavertail grip safeties.

Besides that, if the hammer is built to OEM spec, it should swap over no problems (barring beavertail incompatibilities.)

In fact, I've done a full conversion of all 1911 components on to a Hi-Capa frame before. It was an interesting project.

Originally Posted by juicy

New question: I'm actually thinking of replacing my MEU's hammer with something that isn't so... potmetally, for a lack of a better word (damn clones). I don't have enough confidence in my sear to be grinding up against a harder metal... are there individual sears out there on the market? I recall one or two (can't remember the brand names now... PDI was one of them, I think) but they seem to be out of stock everywhere - more likely out of production. Asides from just buying a new 1911/MEU hammer set, are there any sears that are sold alone? Spoon feed me, puhlease!

Individual steel sears are available, but it's always recommended to match brands to ensure material similarity/compatibility. NEVER mix hammer and sear brands, unless you're sure the metals are similar.

ILLusion Kinetics has individual sears as well, but I don't have any more in stock right at the moment. Again, it's recommended to only mix them with IK hammers as well.

Originally Posted by m61a1

Hi..in this video YouTube- RA-TECH Custom Marui HI-CAPA 5.1.mpg they grind flat all the slide lug and claimed the movement is more smooth...is this true ?

It's true, only if you have the proper equipment and skill to hone the surface to a very smooth finish, while not removing so much material that the slide becomes wobbly.