VSR-10 Upgrade Advice - Zero-Trigger or Not?

[Hectic]

Yes you want the red laylax piston. The orange one is for the zero trigger.

[Kos-Mos]

You really should get the SPEED sears over the Deepfire.
I had a set break after a few mags (yes, they break clean, bad tempering on the steel I guess).

Also, AA trigger is good if you take the time to tune it and work some slop out of it. The 2-parts piston that comes with it is hit or miss. Installed one drop-in, and the other had to sand and polish the nylon glide rings.
You can however use any 90deg piston with the zero trigger.

[Hectic]

Those speed sears actually look prety nice. If i had to replace I would definitely give them a go.

[ao_tenshi]

Thanks Kos-Mos and Hectic!

Yes, the Speed sears look sweet as well. Seems more refined than the Deepfire (on photo at least). I guess due to aluminum vs steel. Will look around to see where they have them in stock.

[ao_tenshi]

Hey guys,

So I've tried to open up the vsr10 for the first time today, and noticed that the stock Cylinder Head has only 1 hole on it (i thought there were 2 so i can use a needle nose plier to open). Not sure if this is normal or not.... but any idea how I can remove the cylinder head without damaging anything around?

Thanks!

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by ao_tenshi

Hey guys,

So I've tried to open up the vsr10 for the first time today, and noticed that the stock Cylinder Head has only 1 hole on it (i thought there were 2 so i can use a needle nose plier to open). Not sure if this is normal or not.... but any idea how I can remove the cylinder head without damaging anything around?

Thanks!

Some came with two holes, and some came with one hole.

Use this tool. Just pull out one of the pins. If you use pliers, you risk nicking up the brass.

[ao_tenshi]

Thanks for the pic Superhog.

Reading this issue more online, seems like there is a side pin that needs to be removed (drilled out) from one of the guides:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/to...r-pin-removal/

This guide seems excessive... wondering if there a more "elegant" way of removing the stock TM cylinder head

[Drakker]

Nope, drilling it is the only way. Do it very carefully otherwise you'll get air loss. It's the reason most upgrade guides recommend to get a new cylinder set. Also, if you use 45° sears, the TM stock aluminum cylinder will eventually bend where the piston puts pressure while cocked. Stainless steel cylinders will last much longer. 90° sears (zero triger, v-trigger, etc.) fix this problem too.

[ao_tenshi]

Originally Posted by Drakker

Nope, drilling it is the only way. Do it very carefully otherwise you'll get air loss. It's the reason most upgrade guides recommend to get a new cylinder set. Also, if you use 45° sears, the TM stock aluminum cylinder will eventually bend where the piston puts pressure while cocked. Stainless steel cylinders will last much longer. 90° sears (zero triger, v-trigger, etc.) fix this problem too.

Thanks for the advice Drakker... did not realize this. Now I'm starting to wonder why I paid so much for the stock TM just to replace everything LOL :banghead:

[Fallen]

And what about the rubber/bucking ?

Imo, I really like those 3:

-Firefly hard (hard to find these day)
-Nineball purple
-PDI W hold

I used the Nineball for 3 years, had good result!!
Last year I changed to the Firefly and the PDI to try something new, they really work great!
With the PDI, it's hard to lift heavier BBs because its too soft, but with low FPS build, its amazing!

What are your preferences?
Anyone tried the new Maple Leaf? Many bolt users are using this right now and reviews are great!

[ao_tenshi]

Yes rubber is definitely on my list, but there are so many choices that it makes it hard to choose for me. Good to know the 3 you've mentions are good. I heard good things about firefly, but as you said where can u find stock?! Might consider nine ball or maple leaf if they are any good.

[Fallen]

Took me about 3-4 month to find my firefly hard when I dicided to buy one ;p

Had to buy in the UK, but worth the price ($25-$30). This thing can lift heavy BBs without any problem

[Drakker]

To use the Maple Leaf rubber you will likely need a new barrel, with an open cut like a pistol. The larger bump of the rubber does not fit in the hop-up window on the stock barrel. You could also file the barrel to enlarge the hop-up window. It's a great rubber, lifts heavy BBs easily and is very consistent once broken in (a few hundred shots). It's also one of the most affordable hop rubber out there.

The nine ball rubber works great, not the most accurate but it lifts heavy BBs easily. It doesn't like the cold though, and will likely get thorn by cylinder heads with larger nozzles or sharp edges.

As stated, the PDI rubber is great, but you will need an upgraded hop-up arm like I listed before to lift heavy BBs. You could also just fill the area between the two "arms" on the stock hop-up lever to get the same result. The PDI rubber has a poor air seal though, so it is possible that it would not work well without some tweaking in your setup.


As for paying so much for the base TM gun, its for a durable and quality platform that will accept high-end upgrade parts without requiring any fitting. You are much better off starting off a TM VSR10 and lightly upgrade it than get a cheapo clone and pay through the roof to upgrade it, spending hours fixing and fitting it to get a platform that will more than likely not shoot any better than a lightly upgraded TM VSR10.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by ao_tenshi

Thanks for the pic Superhog.

Reading this issue more online, seems like there is a side pin that needs to be removed (drilled out) from one of the guides:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/to...r-pin-removal/

This guide seems excessive... wondering if there a more "elegant" way of removing the stock TM cylinder head

Don't follow this guy's method of removing the pin and the use of pliers. I saw this post awhile ago. He wrecks the pin hole with a dremel then nicks up the nozzle with a plumbers wrench.

I used a pin punch to mark a starter mark to the drill in the center of that pin in the cylinder. I then use a 1/16 drill with a hand drill and tiny screw as a extractor to pull it out gracefully.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by Fallen

Took me about 3-4 month to find my firefly hard when I dicided to buy one ;p

Had to buy in the UK, but worth the price ($25-$30). This thing can lift heavy BBs without any problem

The Firefly sear uses a single support pin, the SPEED ones use three support pins. Which one is stronger?