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Old December 13th, 2012, 18:39   #16
SuperHog
 
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario
I have removed over a dozen barrel nuts all tight and not a single broken receiver. I clamp the receiver side ways in a vise with plastic sheets on the vise jaws to protect the paint finish.

Use a heat gun on the nut to expand it only and a good nut wrench.

There are no thread locker on these nuts. Just torqued. The black oxide finish on the nut is abrasive and has tremendous holding power once torqued.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 20:36   #17
Kos-Mos
 
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: LĂ©vis (QC)
Also removed quite a lot of nuts from receivers...

Anyone ever thought about leaving the mechbox and lower attached???

That is how I do it (with a thick rubber piece on both sides, in a vice), and nothing cracked ever... AND I did have to hammer a wrench to get it started... and it was a KA body..
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Old December 13th, 2012, 23:27   #18
OM3GA
 
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I thought about doing that but I didn't want to take the chance of doing any damage to the lower. I think the real trick is what HKGhost showed, making sure you have sufficient clamping force just behind the barrel nut so least amount of flex happens. Not a bad idea though, as I can see little moving that way. I would rather not involve the lower if I didn't have to though.

I'm still amazed it takes the force it does to get these things off, King Arms really likes their parts tight.
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Old December 14th, 2012, 02:24   #19
Wrath144
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Put a vertical grip.... on the top rail?
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Old December 14th, 2012, 04:19   #20
ILLusion
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Put a vertical grip.... on the top rail?
I've seen top rails torn right off the upper receiver by pressuring on the rail.
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