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December 13th, 2012, 18:39 | #16 |
I have removed over a dozen barrel nuts all tight and not a single broken receiver. I clamp the receiver side ways in a vise with plastic sheets on the vise jaws to protect the paint finish.
Use a heat gun on the nut to expand it only and a good nut wrench. There are no thread locker on these nuts. Just torqued. The black oxide finish on the nut is abrasive and has tremendous holding power once torqued. |
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December 13th, 2012, 20:36 | #17 |
Also removed quite a lot of nuts from receivers...
Anyone ever thought about leaving the mechbox and lower attached??? That is how I do it (with a thick rubber piece on both sides, in a vice), and nothing cracked ever... AND I did have to hammer a wrench to get it started... and it was a KA body.. |
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December 13th, 2012, 23:27 | #18 |
I thought about doing that but I didn't want to take the chance of doing any damage to the lower. I think the real trick is what HKGhost showed, making sure you have sufficient clamping force just behind the barrel nut so least amount of flex happens. Not a bad idea though, as I can see little moving that way. I would rather not involve the lower if I didn't have to though.
I'm still amazed it takes the force it does to get these things off, King Arms really likes their parts tight. |
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December 14th, 2012, 02:24 | #19 |
formerly steyr
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Put a vertical grip.... on the top rail?
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December 14th, 2012, 04:19 | #20 |
GBB Whisperer
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I've seen top rails torn right off the upper receiver by pressuring on the rail.
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