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FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

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Old March 4th, 2010, 23:24   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreToasties View Post
I had seen ILLusion just use some sort of punch, so tried the same way.

Felt like I was going to break it, but it popped out eventually.

So yes, friction.
Dang, okay. Well, I've got a week or two of waiting before my new sights arrive...

Same goes for the MEU as does the Hi-Capa? Can someone verify this?
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Old March 4th, 2010, 23:26   #242
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yeah same thing...
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Old March 5th, 2010, 14:48   #243
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Originally Posted by juicy View Post
How do I remove the front sight post? I think it is just held in there by friction, but I want to know for sure before I start pounding on it.

After I remove the old post, how to I install a new one?
You know when you go to Chinese or Japanese take out, you get those crappy garbage wooden chopsticks that break apart and they'll give you splinters? Don't use those ones.

I use slightly higher quality bamboo chopsticks (that you still have to snap apart) - chop off a small piece of it, maybe 1" in length. I use that as a punch to knock the sight out through the dovetail.

DON'T use a metal punch or you'll scratch/damage your sight/slide. This is why I use a wooden/bamboo punch. Bamboo ones are stronger than the crappy wooden ones which will shatter when you punch down.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:08   #244
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
You know when you go to Chinese or Japanese take out, you get those crappy garbage wooden chopsticks that break apart and they'll give you splinters? Don't use those ones.

I use slightly higher quality bamboo chopsticks (that you still have to snap apart) - chop off a small piece of it, maybe 1" in length. I use that as a punch to knock the sight out through the dovetail.

DON'T use a metal punch or you'll scratch/damage your sight/slide. This is why I use a wooden/bamboo punch. Bamboo ones are stronger than the crappy wooden ones which will shatter when you punch down.
Yup, I'm following you on this one. Only thing is... where exactly should I position the punch? i.e. left or right side, on the post or at the base?
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:14   #245
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Yup, I'm following you on this one. Only thing is... where exactly should I position the punch? i.e. left or right side, on the post or at the base?
Doesn't matter left or right side... just remember which way you go out, so that you can re-insert from the same side. Installing/removing the slide WILL cause some scratch marks, so it's best to minimize it by keeping it on the same side all the time.

Punch at the base - never do it to the post or you can snap it clean off the base (I've done this before.)
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:20   #246
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Doesn't matter left or right side... just remember which way you go out, so that you can re-insert from the same side. Installing/removing the slide WILL cause some scratch marks, so it's best to minimize it by keeping it on the same side all the time.

Punch at the base - never do it to the post or you can snap it clean off the base (I've done this before.)
I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:22   #247
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I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.
No fury required. It can happen with a very light tap. It's soft die-cast metal, with the post formed at a right angle to the base. It's not hard to break it clean at the edge.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:27   #248
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No fury required. It can happen with a very light tap. It's soft die-cast metal, with the post formed at a right angle to the base. It's not hard to break it clean at the edge.
I think he's talking about the fury AFTER breaking the sight
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Old March 5th, 2010, 15:27   #249
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I think he's talking about the fury AFTER breaking the sight
Oh, hahahaha. Yes, in that case there was quite a bit of leg thrashing and crying.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 16:05   #250
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I've had fury before when working on airsoft. But that.. That must've been absurd.
Oh gosh, lol. Thanks guys.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 16:14   #251
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THAT...is the reason one of my pistols has an aftermarket fiber optic front sight on it....

AND THAT is the reason I have 2 extras slides and complete front and rear Hicapa sight sets just sitting in a box.
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Old March 6th, 2010, 02:43   #252
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Could someone be so kind as to list the companies that make a 1911 GBB? AFAIK, the following companies make them:

1911:
- TM
- WE
- KSC
- KJW
- WA
- Army (?)
- Socom Gear (?)
- Bell
- Meister (Murashin?)
- RWC
- Tanaka
- J-Armory (?)
- KWC

2011:
- TM (?)
- KSC

MEU:
- TM
- Army(?)
- WA
- Socom Gear
- WE


Probably still missing some.

edit: Listed edited.
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Old March 6th, 2010, 03:14   #253
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Bell
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Old March 6th, 2010, 13:23   #254
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Meister (I think they do, at least). Pretty sure the only single stacker that Army makes is a MEU.
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Old March 7th, 2010, 01:13   #255
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Damn me for tinkering with my 1911 again. I swapped almost everything out and back in and its still firing like a limp p3nis. I've ruled out any possibility of it being the upper assembly from all the swapping. I think it has to do with the striker/valve knocker. It seems to be working the way its supposed to without the mag in (ie. rack the slide, valve knocker retracts so its flush with the chassis wall, press the trigger and it kicks out) so I'm at a loss for what I can do to find out exactly what's going on with it.
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Last edited by Slono; March 7th, 2010 at 12:51..
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