FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[Slono]

Try swapping your hammer spring back to the stock one.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ujiro

So anyone know what could cause the slide to only go back half way, and only half cock the hammer? Trying to figure it out.

There are many things that can cause this, from a sticky slide, to an improper valve knocker (most aftermarket valve knockers, including ILLusion Kinetics require re-shaping in order to fit aftermarket receivers), to a cracked nozzle, to an improperly fitting cylinder bulb, to a mis-shaped disconnect lever, to the slide not engaging the chamber, to your hammer spring being too heavy (and causing the valve knocker to slip off the strike face of the valve), to.... well... like I said, there are many things that can cause this.

There is no one solution to the problem based on the very vague and general description of the problem that you've described. The best way to source the problem is to swap every single part one by one with known working parts to narrow down what causes the issue.

[ujiro]

How can I tell that the valve knocker is functioning properly?

To my knowledge I am still using all of the stock parts inside of the frame (haven't installed the IK hammer kit yet. It fit a little too tight in the frame so I swapped it back out. IIRC it is still the stock knocker, sear, hammer, etc).

Slide runs just fine along the frame, as it did before hand.

Nozzle is good upon inspection (brand new), disconnect lever appears to be in perfect shape

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ujiro

How can I tell that the valve knocker is functioning properly?

By installing the one you had installed when the gun was last known to work.

If you re-install the old one and all of a sudden, your gun starts working.... it's not magic as to why it's working again, right?

If you never changed the valve knocker, then that's obviously not the problem. Go through each of the parts you installed between the last known configuration till when you found out it wasn't working anymore, each component one by one to find the source of the problem. It's simple deduction.
It's also time consuming and a pain in the butt, but if you want your gun to work, it's what you have to do.

[ujiro]

Roger.

Thanks for your help Brian. I will report back after trying to single out the issue.

[ujiro]

Okay so I figured it out. Turns out it wasn't actually any part really causing the issue. Well, maybe you could call it the grip.

Since the grip screw on one side is a different one now and I had to rethread the hole, the grip has some rotational play front and back around the axis of the grip screws.

I took the grip off, put a makeshift shim inbetween the front top of the grip (above the trigger well) and the frame. Put it back on, and the back of the grip (including the mag/magwell) is now pushed up against the frame properly. Now it is firing 100%.

Glad to see it wasn't an issue with any specific part. Now it is just time to figure out if this is an issue with the grip or the frame. If it was the grip, I can just throw on the original TM one, and then get a new SV style one (maybe the WE red one...).


On that note, anyone have any experience with the WE grips? I am only interested in it since I want to have a red or other coloured grip, and Shooters Design never made a red coloured grip for TM.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ujiro

On that note, anyone have any experience with the WE grips? I am only interested in it since I want to have a red or other coloured grip, and Shooters Design never made a red coloured grip for TM.

They fall apart easily. When you get it, I'd recommend splitting the halves, and then re-applying Krazy Glue or some other plastic adhesive to re-attach it.

[ujiro]

Alright, so I've completely fixed all issues with the nozzle system. Works like a dream.

Now the only issue is that I'm stuck with two grip issues. When I use the Shooters Design grip, I need to heavily shim the front of the grip, to force the back end of the grip up against the frame, to keep the mag properly aligned up against the nozzle. It needs serious shimming, so that the front half of the grip isn't touching the frame.. A solid 2mm at least...

When I use the stock TM grip, there is an issue with the trigger/stirrup. Half of the time when I pull the trigger, it doesn't release the hammer for some reason. It makes some click as I pull the trigger, but it doesn't break properly, and doesn't release the hammer.

So, what would you guys suggest?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ujiro

Alright, so I've completely fixed all issues with the nozzle system. Works like a dream.

Now the only issue is that I'm stuck with two grip issues. When I use the Shooters Design grip, I need to heavily shim the front of the grip, to force the back end of the grip up against the frame, to keep the mag properly aligned up against the nozzle. It needs serious shimming, so that the front half of the grip isn't touching the frame.. A solid 2mm at least...

When I use the stock TM grip, there is an issue with the trigger/stirrup. Half of the time when I pull the trigger, it doesn't release the hammer for some reason. It makes some click as I pull the trigger, but it doesn't break properly, and doesn't release the hammer.

So, what would you guys suggest?

You'll need to check the engagement between the stirrup, the sear, the sear disconnect lever, and the leaf spring.

[pusangani]

check if the stirrup is bent too

[RacingManiac]

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop...Y5Mzc3OTU7fQ==

A bunch of new Hi-Capa/1911 parts have showed up. Creation now have a bunch of new Hammers, as well as steel Bo-Mar 5.1 sight. Dytac now makes luminous sight for 4.3/Extreme, MEU and adjustable(9Ball looking) for 5.1....

[ujiro]

Discovered it was in fact the Shooters Design grip that was bent, and not the frame or anything. I got a TM frame today, and the TM grip mounted perfectly to it. Mounted the SD grip, and it did the same thing; has the front to back play. So, I suppose a new SD grip is in order then!

Still experiencing the same weird issues with the TM grip though.. Trigger stirrup seems to not want to properly engage something, so it won't release the hammer. I had it working for a while, when I tried to play with the shape and get it perfectly shaped.. But now it lost it again.

[m102404]

I've had at least one grip that just wouldn't work reliably...same sort of "bend"/torque to it.

As you've noted, it'll cause all sorts of wonky issues. Reseating the grip is temporary most times...it'll move eventually.

Are you using the stock trigger stirrup? (probably not so stock any more if you've been bending it ) Are you using the stock trigger?

If you're using an aftermarket trigger, especially one with an over travel set screw, start with the set screw out (away from sear) all the way. It sometimes doesn't take much more than a 1/8th-1/4 turn to put it too far from the sear. If your grip is going all wonky...that'll screw with things too on the backlash setting.

If you're just testing, take your mag release out...then depress the trigger...if it trips the sear (cause there's nothing stopping the trigger from going back) then you know you need to adjust the space between the rear edge of the trigger where it contacts the mag release.

Or junk it, sell it for parts and start over....

[ujiro]

Stock stirrup and trigger.

When I take the mag release out and put the grip on the gun, and pull the trigger. It only pushes the far right piece (the disconnect...?). The center (sear) stays untouched.

:P the stirrup is still in proper shape as far as I can see. I haven't been bending it I swear.... hehe.

[RacingManiac]

the far right piece(disconnector) should trip the sear into releasing.

One thing to check is to see if the disconnector is freely moving in its slot. If it hangs under the sear after firing a shot the next time you press the trigger the hammer will be resetted but the disconnector won't be able to push the sear(when the trigger has properly reset itself, the order of things from the front of the gun to rear should be: stirrup, disconnect, sear, leaf spring). I've been modding my disconnect a little bit to make it less likely to hang up on the sear. You can also bend the right most prong of the leaf spring inward(towards the front of the gun) to put more pressure on the disconnect to reset itself. I find it though that makes the pull a bit more positive(but heavier).