FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

I have a stock TM Hi-Capa 5.1 now and funnily enough I've ran into sort of the opposite of my previous issue with the slide catch not disengaging.

Now on the TM one, if I were to do a quick reload and insert the magazine a little too hard, the slide catch will slip and release the slide, wearing the notch down. I don't even think I insert the magazine that hard.

Is it common on these guns?

Somewhat common, especially if there is a bit of wear on the notch. Because of the weak recoil spring, it's not hard to jar the slide catch loose.

Installing a stiffer recoil spring could fix this problem temporarily, but it could also speed up wear in the event the slide catch continues to slip free. The added forward force from the spring will wear the notch down faster.

[Wepeel]

I installed a Nine Ball purple hop rubber and I ran into another issue.

Every time after the first shot, the hop will reset to 0. It doesn't matter what the wheel is set to, I look down the chamber after the first shot and no nub is protruding anymore.

I can still adjust the wheel and I can see the arm moving but it has no effect on the rubber. I have to disassemble and reassemble to get it working again only to have it disabled after the first shot again.

Any ideas?

EDIT: The stock rubber still works though.

[Styrak]

Put a shim or a very small rubber o-ring under the dial when you screw the hopup unit back together.

[Wepeel]

It's not the dial wheel that's resetting, it's just the rubber itself. The wheel stays in place.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

I installed a Nine Ball purple hop rubber and I ran into another issue.

Every time after the first shot, the hop will reset to 0. It doesn't matter what the wheel is set to, I look down the chamber after the first shot and no nub is protruding anymore.

I can still adjust the wheel and I can see the arm moving but it has no effect on the rubber. I have to disassemble and reassemble to get it working again only to have it disabled after the first shot again.

Any ideas?

EDIT: The stock rubber still works though.

Does the arm slip out of the adjustment channel in the wheel?

If this is the case, you might want to consider an upgraded steel arm, like the ILLusion Kinetics ones...

[TaroBear]

Just to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong or unnecessary, do I really have to completely strip the 1911 frame to replace the trigger face? It looks like I have to remove just about everything else before I get there.

PS: Working from a stock A1.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

Just to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong or unnecessary, do I really have to completely strip the 1911 frame to replace the trigger face? It looks like I have to remove just about everything else before I get there.

PS: Working from a stock A1.

"Trigger face"? I'm assuming you mean just the trigger itself. In that case, unfortunately, yes, you'll need to pretty much strip the entire gun down to the bare frame. Just watch out for the valve knocker disconnector spring. It will fly out when you remove the internal frame.

[KarlR]

I have a KJW 1911 MEu (Socom Gear Baer Ultimate Recon). The front sight post got nocked off but it and the slide of my 1911 are undamaged. I've lost the tiny allen key that came with the pistol that allowed me to adjust the front post sight. Dose any one know the size of that allen key? It's smaller than a 0.5.

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Does the arm slip out of the adjustment channel in the wheel?

If this is the case, you might want to consider an upgraded steel arm, like the ILLusion Kinetics ones...

The arm does not slip out of the wheel. I'm waiting for the steel arm to arrive in the mail, I was thinking maybe the stock arm is too weak for the new bucking.

On another note, I have the Airsoft Surgeon Fiber Optic Front Sight Ver. 2, is it just me or is the dot not centered on the post? It's a bit annoying.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

The arm does not slip out of the wheel. I'm waiting for the steel arm to arrive in the mail, I was thinking maybe the stock arm is too weak for the new bucking.

In that case, I have no idea. This is another case of e-diagnosis to be very difficult to do, without actually seeing it in person.

Originally Posted by Wepeel

On another note, I have the Airsoft Surgeon Fiber Optic Front Sight Ver. 2, is it just me or is the dot not centered on the post? It's a bit annoying.

It *should* be centered... yours might have a manufacturing flaw. I'd return it to wherever you got it.

[mighty_kit]

I just received the steel arm and brass dial. they work great. now, I can use my 0,28 bb's with no problem.
thank you Brian for another good product. I'm sorry that our countries are so far. I would have bought more stuff from you.

[Wepeel]

I received the steel arm and it's working now. I'm not sure how it got fixed but it did.

There is two smalls thing I'm wondering about still. With the hop turned all the way off the bbs don't roll out on either end like you would expect with the stock bucking all the way off. The other thing is the wheel is really tight and hard to turn at the higher settings. It's fairly easy to adjust until about 70-80% of hop then the resistance gets really high.

Is this because of the design of the Nine Ball rubber, the stickier rubber or not installing the arm properly?

Other than that it's working perfectly fine, I just want to make sure if this is abnormal or not.

[TaroBear]

Despite asking for advice on what grip safety to use...Illusion, I might have goofed. I was so sure everything was coming together so well...until I was doing the final reassembly and realized the grip safety wasn't working.

Here's the one I bought:

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol..._Stainless.htm

Which resulted in it not fitting. Near as I can figure out, there's a little bit on the inside of the frame that prevents this grip safety from going all the way in. I compared it to the stock one, and the thickness is quite noticeable.

(Silver is the one I'm trying to fit, stock is the black)





If I'm correct, I straight up need a new grip safety.

This one might work?

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...eel_Type_1.htm

I can't tell, but the picture makes it look like it's of the thinner variety.

If not, could you point me in the direction of another silver/stainless one?

[apilar]

if your fitting the silver safety onto a 1911a1 model the tangs on the frame are what is preventing it from fitting. Your stock safety is an A1 model and the silver an MEU style.

also, if you have an A1 style hammer it probably will not fit inside the 'cup' part of the silver safety even if you manage to fit it (by grinding the tangs -- not recommended)

[TaroBear]

Well, the stock safety came from a stock Marui A1. I swapped out the necessary parts for conversion to an MEU. I'm using an MEU hammer as well. The stock A1 grip safety won't fit, of course. The problem was that I thought the silver safety was appropriate for the MEU...which it doesn't seem to be.