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August 3rd, 2008, 22:17 | #16 |
I've used tamiya paints too. They have tons of different shades of OD green (based on different countries issued OD colors). You should be able to find a few shades that work for you.
I also do the Tamiya matte clearcoat too, works great on taking out the glare. |
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August 3rd, 2008, 22:37 | #17 |
I ran out of my old krylon camo paint and picked up some of the indoor outdoor crap, foget it to shiney and looks like plastic when dried, waist of $14
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August 3rd, 2008, 22:51 | #18 |
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@OP: the problem is you're kinda doing it wrong. Don't use OD as your base color unless you something really dark (like woodland).
Try starting with a khaki base on the entire gun and add OD and Brown after. Use black sparingly for shadows, which you can offset by re-applying some Khaki to create highlights.
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August 3rd, 2008, 23:02 | #19 | |
Quote:
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August 3rd, 2008, 23:31 | #20 | |
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If you want it to be effective, forget what it looks like up close when it's sitting on your kitchen table. Light is fine as long as there are dark contrasting elements to break up the outline of the gun. From a distance you aren't going to see little leaf patterns, just the overall tones. Khakis and browns work well in woodland, all year round; they blend with branches and dirt and sand. Just add a few OD highlights to it (like a leaf stencil). It's also a very versatile color pallet. Snakeskin patterns are also very effective. ( nice example here. big pic warning)
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August 4th, 2008, 18:11 | #21 |
Banned
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well, heres another time to post this. im not sure if this is the patturn your looking for, but if so, il tell you exactly how i did it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2821092...n/photostream/ thats the old paint job, il post pics of the new improoved ones later. CHEERS! |
August 4th, 2008, 18:48 | #22 |
Thanks M700 that's pretty much exactly what I'm trying to do, except I might add some brown because brown is a pretty common colour where I use my rifle. I also just like the way that looks and I'm mainly painting it because the black body contrasts the ghillie I make unless I do it really heavily. So ya, I'd def be interested in a step-by-step on how you did that paint job. Thanks m8, PM me!
Drake-I'll also see if I can incorporate your advice effectively, thanks for the help Last edited by gabe_guitarded; August 4th, 2008 at 18:50.. |
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August 5th, 2008, 00:52 | #23 | |
I started with a base coat of Krylon Khaki and used OD as well as brown to do the masking layers. I also added some Satin finished Green to add a little foliage and depth effect, but it adds a small shine which could end up bitting me in the arse next game.
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Always run, never think twice, live to fight another day and remember this simple saying: "You are not Superman, and you don't shit ammo out of your ass Monkey Boy!" Quote:
Last edited by CanKam; August 5th, 2008 at 00:54.. |
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August 5th, 2008, 00:59 | #24 |
Hey guys just wondering if i use a Primer how long should I wait to spray the topcoat?
Also after painting with krylon the surface is kind of rough so what should I do to get a smoother surface?
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those who have hunted armed men long enough and like it, never really care for anything else thereafter." - Ernest Hemingway |
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August 5th, 2008, 02:34 | #25 | |
Well that depends on the Primer you used... Latex primers dry faster, but some oil based primers may dry just as fast. Some primers are special purpose sealers or undercoat, or both. So you'll have to be more specific there Dao.
As for the roughness, there isn't much you can do as the paint itself does that effect. If it were smooth it either be glossy or it would have a plastic like component ( Behr's 100% acrylic paint for example). If you're afraid for your paint you can always use a Workable Fixatif (krylon) to help preserve your work without adding to much of a shine. However, don't add to much, or you'll end up with a glossy/satin finish.
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Always run, never think twice, live to fight another day and remember this simple saying: "You are not Superman, and you don't shit ammo out of your ass Monkey Boy!" Quote:
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August 5th, 2008, 02:41 | #26 |
When I need a lighter green I paint it tan and then mist OD over it or vice versa. By overlapping colours and misting instead of putting on a heavy solid coat you can get theoretically an infinite number of variations.
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August 5th, 2008, 02:42 | #27 | |
Quote:
http://www.krylon.com/products/indooroutdoor_primer/
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those who have hunted armed men long enough and like it, never really care for anything else thereafter." - Ernest Hemingway |
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August 5th, 2008, 03:21 | #28 | |
Alright, so two things are important: take into consideration that a primer does help paint adhere better, but you'll also need to help your primer stick to your surface, so be prepared to scuff your surface up (steel wool works best without being to harsh). Also, be aware that a primer might hide/fill some of the finner details of your surface, even with an aerosol form. After all, you are adding to your surface, so be sure not to fill important joints or spray paint the more technical aspects of your Airsoft (gearbox or hop-up mostly. Do protect your barrel)
As for tips:
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Always run, never think twice, live to fight another day and remember this simple saying: "You are not Superman, and you don't shit ammo out of your ass Monkey Boy!" Quote:
Last edited by CanKam; August 5th, 2008 at 03:23.. |
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