I edited my previous message because I totally forgot you had a battery, even if I commented about it in my first answer. My bad.
I still recommend the mosfet, but it will not solve the issue (but can help a little since it reduces electrical resistance).
If you want a battery that last more, you need more mAh. More mAh will get you a better run time, with the added benefit of delivering more power to the motor (because constant power delivered, or amperage, will be equivalent to the Ah [or mAh/1000] x C [Coulomb, roughly meaning charge transported per ampere]). That means your battery delivers 20A. That also means a 2000mah battery with the same C rating will deliver 40A. ** Right now, assuming the 20A draw just to fire and a constant firing, you have (1 Ah / 20A) = 0.05 hours of runtime, or a great 3 minutes of firing (this doesn't mean 3 minutes of play, unless you just spam the trigger tirelessly for 3 minutes). This is where bigger mAh rating and a more efficient/stronger motor comes into play. Quick note, I run 1600mah 25C batteries, which are considered small, and I get 40A. I also usually last the whole game with my setup.
For the shimming, I though VFC had unshimmable/self-shimming gears. Self-shimming doesn't mean good, far from it, but they mean you'll have to change the gearset to shim them, because they use small springs instead of shims, and this gun's already been costly. If, however, gears are NOT self-shimmable, well of course it needs to be addressed. It was part of the mods I specified as needed for long-term efficiency. The motor height should be checked at the same time (especially if you shim using the bevel-> pinion gear technique, which is the only one I can recommend).
We're just running in circles right now, because a stronger FPS needs a lot of forethought (even if not complicated) and obviously the tech that was hired for the job did a poor job at predicting the issues that could arise, or simply didn't knew what he was doing. Plus, as people before mentioned, you should be hitting close to your desired fps with that m130 spring, so there's that to solve before. I won't repeat what they have said about the airseal.
The short answer would be to add a mosfet (for all the reasons previously mentioned, and because I believe every AEG should have one), change the motor, make sure everything works to avoid future problems (Angle of engagement, piston tooth removal as needed, shimming, look for pre-engagement, etc). But the build has been already too costly, and it's a mess right now. Purchasing more stuff will not help, at least not immediately.
OP, If you ever need another tech, the area where you live is full of them, just hit the GunDoc list here:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...126690&page=16
Start from the last page for updated information and go back until you find someone that suits your needs.
If you decide to do the work yourself, I'm all for it! You can learn a great deal just by reading on the internet and looking at dissassembly videos. You seem like someone that loves to learn (or at least know what it's all about) so just read about the parts in a gearbox, what they do, and check dissassembly videos to understand it all. There even are videos about your specific model. The first few times are stressful, and closing the gearbox the first time can be hard, but with prior preparation, I believe everyone can do it. Once you understand how all part interact together, you'll understand exactly what you need to replace, and what you don't need to.
(Still rambling :P )
September 19th, 2013, 10:51
