WE 1911 Slide Catching Randomly

[Rotting]

Recently started having an issue with my 1911's slide catching.


The gun itself has been properly oiled.
When the mag is removed and slide is racked, the slide returns.
When the mag is empty and in, slide is racked, the slide locks.
When the mag is loaded and in, slide is racked, the slide returns.

Problem I'm having is that pretty much after every shot, the slide catch engages and locks back the slide. Originally I thought the hammer may have been causing an obstruction, but it isn't that. On second thoughts, I figured maybe it needed oiling, so I re-oiled it entirely. Still, the slide locks back.

Any ideas?

Edit: Here's a photo showing what's going on. the slide catch is just barely grabbing on to the slide. I can't figure out why, though. Fired 7 shots, all 7 of them caught up on the slide catch like this.

[Thenooblord]

looks like the plunger isnt holding it down tight enough and it lets the catch jump up a bit with recoil, simplest answer to that would be to just round off teh catch a little so it doesnt catch unless fully engaged

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

looks like the plunger isnt holding it down tight enough and it lets the catch jump up a bit with recoil, simplest answer to that would be to just round off teh catch a little so it doesnt catch

That would disable his catch. Wouldn't looking into putting a stronger spring for the plunger make more sense? :|

[Rotting]

I'd prefer to not file anything down if possible.

Any way to make the plunger push against the catch a bit harder?

Edit:

Originally Posted by ShelledPants

That would disable his catch. Wouldn't looking into putting a stronger spring for the plunger make more sense? :|

Any chance you know where I could pick something like that up?

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by Rotting

I'd prefer to not file anything down if possible.

Any way to make the plunger push against the catch a bit harder?

Edit:



Any chance you know where I could pick something like that up?

You can get the MAG spring packs for $7 from most stores for TM 1911, I also don't know compatibility for WE and TM with regards to the plunger spring. You can also look into bic lighters and pens for small springs that might fit.

[Rotting]

Would a form of a buffer also work? Something to cause the spring to be more compressed between the catch plunger and the safety plunger?

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by Rotting

Would a form of a buffer also work? Something to cause the spring to be more compressed between the catch plunger and the safety plunger?

Try it, test it, if it works: That's a fix. EDIT: Preferably without removing a key function of the firearm.

Check the plunger and slide catch for wear. It's all pot metal and could easily deform/grind to prevent proper movement of the plunger.

[Thenooblord]

rounding off the catch slightly does NOT disable it, dont be ridiculous
and it may not just be spring tension alone that is the cause of the problem, the plungers themselves, burrs in teh channel casting etc, if you round off the corner itll bounce back downwards if it jumps up alittle, like i said, the simplest, fastest and cheapest fix, and if he somehow screws it up, a new slide catch is like $15 bucks...
maybe read what I say next time shelled, I said "round it a little" not "take off the whole nub so itll never work"

[Rotting]

Replaced the slide-lock pin with one from a WE Compact that I had collecting dust. Seems to working okay now. Adding a buffer didn't do it any good since the slide-lock pin was so worn down it was barely making contact. Needed a new pin altogether.


Anyone know where I could find slide lock pins for sale? I know it's Part #47 for 1911, I just can't seem to find them anywhere. Would have thought replacement parts would be a little more accessible :/

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

rounding off the catch slightly does NOT disable it, dont be ridiculous
and it may not just be spring tension alone that is the cause of the problem, the plungers themselves, burrs in teh channel casting etc, if you round off the corner itll bounce back downwards if it jumps up alittle, like i said, the simplest, fastest and cheapest fix, and if he somehow screws it up, a new slide catch is like $15 bucks...
maybe read what I say next time shelled, I said "round it a little" not "take off the whole nub so itll never work"

Lets not turn this thread into one over who's the bigger cunt.

Originally Posted by Rotting

Anyone know where I could find slide lock pins for sale? I know it's Part #47 for 1911, I just can't seem to find them anywhere. Would have thought replacement parts would be a little more accessible :/

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-re...m1911-gbb.html These? They are out of stock at ehobby, I'll have a look around for you.


In stock at Redwolf: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...i_Cap_1911.htm

[Thenooblord]

Illusion usually has them

[c3sk]

Originally Posted by Thenooblord

looks like the plunger isnt holding it down tight enough and it lets the catch jump up a bit with recoil, simplest answer to that would be to just round off teh catch a little so it doesnt catch unless fully engaged

I always wonder if one day I'll see you suggest some gun doctoring advice that doesn't involve someone hacking their airsoft gun up with a dremel. You've already received infractions for this type of advice in the past, which resulted in an automatic ban from ASC.

Do you ever learn kid?

[GBBR]

Check your mag (part that engages slide lock) and then inner part of the slide catch.

on more than one occasion, there was build up which lead to premature slide lock.

[jordan7831]

I find that most mag catches from quality guns have a slight slope angle to them. The purpose is to allow the pin to pivot the catch out of the way when you rack the slide. This is why racking the slide on a 1911/hi capa releases the slide catch.

Its not much but very slight. Like many already said, inspect the pins and spring to see if there is any damage or excessive wear to them.

If you HAVE to remove material, always go slow and steady and test and retest. With the cheap metal that these parts are made of, it is very easy to remove too much material.

But for academic purposes, if the pins and spring are perfect, and you absolutely had to break out the dermal, you could use the bit that is shaped like a ball and just put a small divot for the pin to sit in. Doing this would allow for the pin to hold down the mag catch a little bit better. However, try other methods before potentially ruining parts. But hey, mag catches are only $10 at most places anyways. If anything I have a spare TM one if you need.