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Old December 4th, 2011, 18:24   #16
Kable
 
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Think IF i go the full build road i'll just get a drop-in geabox. Less hassle. Now my question is should i do a full build or get a M4A1 and add stuff on it... So many damn choices... LOL
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Old December 4th, 2011, 19:56   #17
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Less hassles, double the cash, less guarantees it'll work right off the bat with your gun.......
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Old December 4th, 2011, 20:49   #18
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I also agree that MOSFETs do not work on ARES and STAR microswitches
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Old December 4th, 2011, 21:24   #19
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What do you guys think? Get a basic M4 and change all the furniture? Or buy a metal body and gearbox and build it all? Looking to probly make a MK18 Mod1 since i wanna get a SEALs AOR1 loadout.
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Old December 4th, 2011, 22:43   #20
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Would be WAY cheaper to just buy a VFC or G&P MK18 and upgrade the internals.
Then you already have all quality externals, and the internals will last a while until you buy upgrades. And the G&P mechbox is TM spec, and tough as a nail, so you won't have to buy a mechbox shell or any of the little internal bits.
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Old December 5th, 2011, 01:41   #21
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Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
expect to pay double what you would from buying a drop in mechbox. All the small parts you'll be buying that you could leave stock, like the cutoff lever, trigger switch and selector switch, are all upgraded parts, so they're gonna cost way more.

Also, personal preference, but I wouldn't use anything modify. Prometheus, G&P and ARS only.
I must intervene, Prometheus is over priced for what you get. Value wise, Modify is the way to go (except inner barrels, Promy's got that one.). Of coarse that is my opinion. I do like G&P though, with the exception of the're leaky air nozzles. I cannot say anything bad about ARS, they make great products.
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Old December 5th, 2011, 02:07   #22
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Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
Would be WAY cheaper to just buy a VFC or G&P MK18 and upgrade the internals.
Then you already have all quality externals, and the internals will last a while until you buy upgrades. And the G&P mechbox is TM spec, and tough as a nail, so you won't have to buy a mechbox shell or any of the little internal bits.
VFCs are solid guns. the only issue with their gearbox is the cutoff lever. the little tab on the end that pushes up on the switch shuttle is a bit short when compared with other makes, so it sometimes doesn't disengage the shuttle and gets wedged between it and the gearbox shell.. basically it gets stuck on full auto.
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Old December 5th, 2011, 13:53   #23
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Luckily prometheus makes a cutoff lever lol
Prometheus has a lot of overpriced parts, but the things that really matter are actually pretty competitive, like their gears and piston. Prom gears are only $10 more than systema, and if you buy an upgrade package you save over $100 on stuff.
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Old December 6th, 2011, 02:25   #24
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I have yet to see a broken Modify TORUS ver.2 gearbox. G&P, G&G, SYSTEMA, KINGARMS and Guarder breaks in same place like a stock TM. Luckily in my own experience I have never broken any gearbox and other gearbox parts in the the past 9yrs. I trust my gearbox guts with Prometheus, Guarder, Deepfire, KA and Modify(it still new to me and their products stand up to my expectations).
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Old January 9th, 2012, 19:43   #25
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Where would i find a Trigger assembly? Pretty much everthing else Airsoftparts has, but they dont seem to have any triggers.

Read a bit about gearboxes and it seems that mix&match is a really bad idea. Modify isnt the best brand but it's decent and available.
You can use a pot metal trigger or this one.

http://youtu.be/5rkt7E3JXOg
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Old January 9th, 2012, 20:09   #26
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it's not that simple
the trigger mech on these Ares gearboxes work in a way that using something like a tact switch just would not work. the micro switch used by Ares is set up to be pressed for off and released for on, basically working backwards.
as for guns that i have worked on that have either V2 or V3 switches (shuttle pushed forward into contacts) and run with a MOSFET, i replace the contacts with tact switches.
That is called NC... all micro switches are made in both configurations...

And what prevents you from moving the ECU anywhere other than the trigger group? Just route two wires to the trigger and voila... nothing special about it.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 04:41   #27
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Originally Posted by Kos-Mos View Post
That is called NC... all micro switches are made in both configurations...

And what prevents you from moving the ECU anywhere other than the trigger group? Just route two wires to the trigger and voila... nothing special about it.
the problem with the micro switch isn't really what configuration its set on. whether NC or NO, mosfets hate it cause it looses contact due to vibration and shock from the gears and piston. i have tried many differently rated micro switches with varying stiffness. all had the same problem. these switches simply are not designed to be used in anything that my induce a shock or vibrate. when it is used in an AEG with a mosfect, there isn't enough voltage running through the contact points inside the switch to make it stick, so what ends up happening is that the power to the motor is inconsistent and it stats to hiccup. it can get bad enough that it can confuse the mosfet (in this case a fire control computer), to shut down and cut off all power as it thinks there is short somewhere.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:59   #28
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I hear of the same problem in CA249s with PGC mechboxes that also use microswitches.
However with the CA, apparently you can get a higher quality microswitch that allows the use of an SW-COMP, but I haven't confirmed it anywhere
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