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mcguyver · October 2nd, 2005, 19:14

i don't believe it is your motor, but you haven't given enough info to be sure. if the motor has a dead spot in the windings it would show up in full auto as well. does this happen? it may also be brush engagement with the commutator but again this would also show up in full auto. i just opened up a g&g ump that "died" after 1 mag from brand new and they used lithium grease throughout it. it broke down into a black sludge that mostly congregated at the bottom of the mechbox.the belief was broken tappet but it was just tappet/sector gear engagement. lithium has a lower viscosity than a standard gear grease and will flow. it disperses moisture and resists reaction with water. both are unlikely to happen in an airsoft gun. use a gear grease (avalaible at can tire or anywhere) for gears and a silicone based grease for the cylinder with a low viscosity (depends on cylinder type and head set type for best result). i haven't found a good silicone grease other than from airsoft manufacturers or what i've manufactured from dow corning components. i recently de-tuned a 475 fps spr/a to 370fps with my silicone grease concoction and we get 370 +/- 2 fps after 6000+ rounds. that i think is a nearly unheard of consistancy in the airsoft world.
but i don't think a discussion of grease is totally on our topic here. as long as you parts are free-moving, including your "sway control bar" as ics calls it (the semi-auto trigger release bar) then you should be ok.

October 2nd, 2005, 19:14	#21
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	i don't believe it is your motor, but you haven't given enough info to be sure. if the motor has a dead spot in the windings it would show up in full auto as well. does this happen? it may also be brush engagement with the commutator but again this would also show up in full auto. i just opened up a g&g ump that "died" after 1 mag from brand new and they used lithium grease throughout it. it broke down into a black sludge that mostly congregated at the bottom of the mechbox.the belief was broken tappet but it was just tappet/sector gear engagement. lithium has a lower viscosity than a standard gear grease and will flow. it disperses moisture and resists reaction with water. both are unlikely to happen in an airsoft gun. use a gear grease (avalaible at can tire or anywhere) for gears and a silicone based grease for the cylinder with a low viscosity (depends on cylinder type and head set type for best result). i haven't found a good silicone grease other than from airsoft manufacturers or what i've manufactured from dow corning components. i recently de-tuned a 475 fps spr/a to 370fps with my silicone grease concoction and we get 370 +/- 2 fps after 6000+ rounds. that i think is a nearly unheard of consistancy in the airsoft world. but i don't think a discussion of grease is totally on our topic here. as long as you parts are free-moving, including your "sway control bar" as ics calls it (the semi-auto trigger release bar) then you should be ok.