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m102404 · June 26th, 2012, 13:22

1. I'd disregard the WE closed bolt generations. They're obsolete. They're still out there, but to be honest they are not worth it looking forward. There's bunches of info already out there on mods/tweaks...some better than others. The #1 Upgrade to a WE closed bolt is...to convert it to an open bolt.

2. WE OB...there's only one mod I feel that's a must do to the rifle...the rest is proper check up/maintenance type stuff or mods to the mags
- teflon tape (plumbers tape) the barrel/hopup rubber so that it seats/fits the chamber securely

3. WE CB/OB maintenance/mods
- use gasket maker (blue or black) to seal the back plate of the mags. Wait until fully cured. Then cycle a min of 2-3 mags worth of gas to clear any residue. If you don't clear them afterwards, you'll end up with silicone/gasket gunk everywhere and will have to strip down/clean it all. I purposely did not do this to see what would happen with a dozen + mags over a couple of games. No cleaning...just a bit more oil/grease before games. Eventual build up will slow down the nozzle enough to cause short/erratic cycling...a very thin layer will deposit on everything attracting dirt/dust. The residue will coat your chamber/hopup rubber and inner barrel. Nothing busted...just takes a lot of scrubbing/wiping to get it all clean. Just did that the other day...runs like brand new again.
- light silicone oil is great for any rotating/bearing/touching parts. Heavier silicone oil is fine too. PTFE grease is fine on larger bearing/rolling parts. Light silicone oil added to propane (same as with pistols) is all that's needed between maintenance.
- the retention cap that holds the buffer retaining pin into the lower receiver can work itself out...eventually crashing with the bolt. Remove, clean, loctite and never worry about it again.
- BB fragments should be picked out as soon as possible...otherwise they will either fracture the nozzle (same as with a GBB) or else prevent the bolt from fully chambering, locking up the gun
- loctite everything you don't want shaken loose off the gun. Mostly on sights/rails...but the grip screw, front sight screw and

Aside from an NPAS...I haven't done anything else to my personal stock WE M4. I've had/seen/fiddled with plenty of the "upgrade" steel parts...I don't think that they are necessary (they're pretty though) and at best I think they do nothing. If the parts/peices are fitting well there's very little wear on any of the engagement surfaces even after 1000's of rounds. The notorious Part#66 in early gens has long since been fixed in stock guns...so not really a worry anymore.

Re accuracy...once you're into the WE OB, the hopup/inner is very TM VSR10. So you've got a bunch of hopup rubber options...and nubs...and barrels to pick from. If you're cutting barrels...cut them properly. The OB hopup system is "hard"...there's little to no give in it (stock) so very fine adjustments are necessary or else it goes from not enough to too much hop. Changing rubbers/nubs has a dramatic effect on that.

If you really want to fiddle with range and accuracy I'd go extended barrel with a PDI hopup.

To summarize. Starting with a current OB WE M4...I'd:
1. strip it down
2. teflon tape the barrel/rubber for a good chamber fit
3. shim the inner and outer barrel if necessary(I can just fit a thin oring between mine...on a couple I can't fit much of anything)
4. reassemble..Loctite as I go
5. lube with silicone oil or PTFE grease as needed
6. seal back plates of mags

For me...the G&P WOC/WA system is all in the mags. The mags are just freakishly expensive. Internals durability is ok and you can definitely get some that really kick...but I found that the fun turns to suck when you start breaking expensive nozzles and bolts.

Can't comment on the KJW.

June 26th, 2012, 13:22	#23
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	1. I'd disregard the WE closed bolt generations. They're obsolete. They're still out there, but to be honest they are not worth it looking forward. There's bunches of info already out there on mods/tweaks...some better than others. The #1 Upgrade to a WE closed bolt is...to convert it to an open bolt. 2. WE OB...there's only one mod I feel that's a must do to the rifle...the rest is proper check up/maintenance type stuff or mods to the mags - teflon tape (plumbers tape) the barrel/hopup rubber so that it seats/fits the chamber securely 3. WE CB/OB maintenance/mods - use gasket maker (blue or black) to seal the back plate of the mags. Wait until fully cured. Then cycle a min of 2-3 mags worth of gas to clear any residue. If you don't clear them afterwards, you'll end up with silicone/gasket gunk everywhere and will have to strip down/clean it all. I purposely did not do this to see what would happen with a dozen + mags over a couple of games. No cleaning...just a bit more oil/grease before games. Eventual build up will slow down the nozzle enough to cause short/erratic cycling...a very thin layer will deposit on everything attracting dirt/dust. The residue will coat your chamber/hopup rubber and inner barrel. Nothing busted...just takes a lot of scrubbing/wiping to get it all clean. Just did that the other day...runs like brand new again. - light silicone oil is great for any rotating/bearing/touching parts. Heavier silicone oil is fine too. PTFE grease is fine on larger bearing/rolling parts. Light silicone oil added to propane (same as with pistols) is all that's needed between maintenance. - the retention cap that holds the buffer retaining pin into the lower receiver can work itself out...eventually crashing with the bolt. Remove, clean, loctite and never worry about it again. - BB fragments should be picked out as soon as possible...otherwise they will either fracture the nozzle (same as with a GBB) or else prevent the bolt from fully chambering, locking up the gun - loctite everything you don't want shaken loose off the gun. Mostly on sights/rails...but the grip screw, front sight screw and Aside from an NPAS...I haven't done anything else to my personal stock WE M4. I've had/seen/fiddled with plenty of the "upgrade" steel parts...I don't think that they are necessary (they're pretty though) and at best I think they do nothing. If the parts/peices are fitting well there's very little wear on any of the engagement surfaces even after 1000's of rounds. The notorious Part#66 in early gens has long since been fixed in stock guns...so not really a worry anymore. Re accuracy...once you're into the WE OB, the hopup/inner is very TM VSR10. So you've got a bunch of hopup rubber options...and nubs...and barrels to pick from. If you're cutting barrels...cut them properly. The OB hopup system is "hard"...there's little to no give in it (stock) so very fine adjustments are necessary or else it goes from not enough to too much hop. Changing rubbers/nubs has a dramatic effect on that. If you really want to fiddle with range and accuracy I'd go extended barrel with a PDI hopup. To summarize. Starting with a current OB WE M4...I'd: 1. strip it down 2. teflon tape the barrel/rubber for a good chamber fit 3. shim the inner and outer barrel if necessary(I can just fit a thin oring between mine...on a couple I can't fit much of anything) 4. reassemble..Loctite as I go 5. lube with silicone oil or PTFE grease as needed 6. seal back plates of mags For me...the G&P WOC/WA system is all in the mags. The mags are just freakishly expensive. Internals durability is ok and you can definitely get some that really kick...but I found that the fun turns to suck when you start breaking expensive nozzles and bolts. Can't comment on the KJW.