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Downgrading to achieve fps limit
So I was wondering if there was any "quick fix" to this problem. Like a quick and easy way to change some part to reduce my fps by 20-30 to get into an indoor cqb but be able to switch it back if I want to play out in the field.
The gun in question? Dboys PDW. It shoots around 380 (according to internet) and the field is 350 firm. I heard some talk about springs but when I was searching Torontoairsoft.com I could find no springs. Can someone shed some insight on this and perhaps provide me with a link or 2? I don't want to spend too much money doing this if its possible. |
How fast do you want to be able to swap your FPS?
There are some velocity reducers available on the market in the form of muzzle devices which should theoretically be able to lower your FPS quite quickly. However some indoor places don't allow these devices since it is hard to police and enforce their use. Otherwise, you'll just have to open up your gun and swap the spring. Purchase an M100 spring and call it a day. The first time is a little daunting, but after doing it a few times it's not so bad. I can swap a spring on an M4 in about 5 minutes now. Unless you're John, in which case it would take 30 mins LOL You should probably also chrony the gun itself instead of relying on a factory FPS number. DBoys isn't exactly known for consistency. |
It doesn't have to be on the fly, I just don't want to open the gun, take every part out and open everything just to get at some tiny like screw or something then put it all back together and have my whole morning/afternoon gone. 5-10 maybe 15 mins is alright with me. I finally found the springs on torontoairsoft but of course they are all labelled for people who know what the hell they are doing :P
M100 spring you say? will that bring it down enough? Because I don't know what kind of spring I have and this will be my first time changing something in an airsoft gun |
Unless you buy an ARES or ICS, it will take at least 30 minutes to do it if you know what to do.
To change the FPS in an AEG, you have to change the main spring. Most replacement springs are rated in meter/second. So if you want to hit say 330fps, a MS100 will do the job. The reason why velocity reducers are not allowed is that they only slow the first shot. If you fire full auto, the first shot will be 20-30 fps lower and the next ones will be 5 fps lower. They also wear down quite fast. Unless you intend to go to every event all year, you really should simply pay a gundoc to do the swap/maintenance twice a year (upgrade to 380-390 for summer, and downgrade to 330-340 for winter). |
take the mechbox apart and cut one coil of the spring.
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Or take it to a doc and pay the price.It's time or money, that's life, no choice. I can swap a spring in 10mn but it takes a nice mechbox that's easy to close.You can't say how nice your mechbox will be until you open it, some are easy and some are nasty. |
There is always this: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...Device_VVD.htm
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okay well 30 mins isn't all that bad. Thank you for all the replies though!
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Prepare 2 hours and check twice everything. Also, find a screw driver that fits in the hole in the rear of the mechbox before opening it. You will find it handy to hold onto it when splitting it open. |
you could try leaving your spring compressed for a week and see if it reduces the strength temporarily. Just pull the trigger to the point it's about to release and then let it sit for a week and see what it chronos after. It's not a permanent solution because the spring will revert back to normal after a few days, but it will reduce the power for a day.
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check videos on youtbue on how to open the mechbox and where to put your fingers.
When closing the box, you can use tweezers to hold the anti reversal latch in position by clamping it to the box frame. take a photo when opening the mechbox. closing the box: -hold the spring/piston/cylinder together in position with one hand -lay down the box's side onto the mechbox, switch fingers to keep holding the cylinder/spring through the cyldinder's window on the mechbox's frame -adjust gear axes into holes ( with a flat screwdriver), latch's axis into its hole. -check the nozzle movement if possible test the mechbox's function before putting the gun back together. |
release the anti reversal latch before slitting the halves of the gearbox for less assplosion chance.
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I recommend downgrading this gun to be your CQB gun, and then get another AEG for outdoor play. Either that or just stick with sub-350 fps for outdoor play until you can afford a proper outdoor setup. You can still lob BBs pretty far at 320fps, as long as they are heavy.
For a person new to opening up AEGs, the DBoys PDW (I have one) is somewhat annoying to get apart and put together, and if you do it often you risk shredding your wiring or stripping some threading on the gearbox (especially the screws that attach the grip to the body -- this threading goes fast, I've done it). |
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as far as fps reducer keep in mind that ttac doesnt allow use of those not sure about other fields
edit i see i was a lil slow on that lol. |
if you play at Ultimate Airsoft, they will do it for you for a fee
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To be honest, a M100 may get your gun too hot, but since D boys has a pretty crappy air seal it might work. My G36 was getting 405 fps with a M100 spring. Using a M90 might be safer, I've seen guns with lesser air seals get 290 fps, but my Mk16 is getting 345 fps with the same spring.
You'll probably be fine with a 350 fps gun for both indoors and outdoors, 30 fps really makes no difference. |
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Yeah I thought that was physically impossible too.... It may have been a mislabeled spring which has happened before.
Although that said I have a Modify S110+ spring (I don't believe they use an M/s rating for their springs) and it started at like 415 FPS before settling down to a consistent 394. |
A M100 spring should be 330fps...in a "stock" gun. But what particular "stock" format that's based on has become a bit dated IMO.
IIRC most of the spring ratings were set as they related to a stock "TM mechbox" or the stock TM M90 spring in their guns. To that end they were rated pre-upgrades (or what used to be considered upgrades). Many mechboxes/AEGs come stock with bearing spring guides, bearing piston heads, tightbores, many with decent airseals/etc...and those all affect the FPS over and above the spring rating. So it's quite possible to get many fps over the spring rating for a lot of "stock" setups out there. And then there's the QC issue of what the spring is actually made to. So it's either try-it-and-chronie...or drop down enough to be on the safe side. For sub 350fps it's always safe to go with a good quality M90 spring, because even with a nice setup you're typically hovering in the 330-340 range. |
I would make friends with someone who can chrono your gun for you. What they say on the interwebs and what you actually have/can get are 2 very different things.
It could be way above 380 stock or under, it all depends on how well the air seals are. I am actually gearing up to do the same thing. My gun is listed as 430fps and I want it just below 400fps. Instead of buying one spring and hoping I have the right one, I bought a spring set wich has 3 spings... try searching AEG springs on e-bay I got all 3 for $12 and free shipping. If you are going to have your gearbox open you might as well upgrade some other parts while you are there like swapping bushings out for bearings. So you might want to get some bearings and shims. Chrono's aren't cheap but if you play often and want to tinker a bit more it is a great investment, also the resale is pretty good on them from what I can see. |
Nothing quick and easy is gonna please you... Unless VERY expensive escorts are your thing ;) Put in the time (read for hours and watch vids) to learn the tech or pay to get it done. Think of it this way, is there any quick easy way to get my computer to perform the way I want? Well yes, money. Or I learn the tech :)
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Also: ww.airsoftparts.ca/news/modifyspringtest.pdf Quote:
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