Upgraded cylinder:
http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload...-SP-001-1L.jpg

CO2 cylinder kit:
http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload...CO2-001-1L.jpg

Does the CO2 cartridge go in the cylinder?

I think so. But can't really confirm till someone buys it or ares updates their site

You need to disassemble the rifle during the game to change the CO2 cartridge?

Just got back and installed the upgrade cylinder. It now primes with a more positive click. The spring that comes with increases fps by about 20.

I just realized what u meant after having a thorough look at the manual. Thing is that the muzzle adapter on mine is pretty tight. Is it fitted on CW or CCW?

So I have read all the horror stories of the broken piston/trigger that causes the slam fire.
As a new owner of the Ms338, and haven't shot 4 magazines, I hope I can learn all the lessons here before it happens.
But I have a question to all especially who experienced slam fire.
Is the slam fire really caused by crappy quality of the plastic piston ?
If I replace the bolt completely with the new Ares steel spring bolt kit
(http://www.aresairsoft.com/BoltActionUp.html), does it help to prevent ?
Or do I have to do some modification in the trigger group as well just what Arktic has done/suggested ?

Thanks a lot.

Check your sear. If it is sloppy and have a lot of play, under a heavy upgraded spring it can let go the piston prematurely. Unless the piston is soft flexible plastic, it can hold provided the sear can hold it.

Look at these videos which shows the sear slop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=TmBhCv8xPxk

M28 cnc aluminum sear set for Echo1 - YouTube

I never really experienced the slam fire but I replaced the stock cylinder group with the upgraded steel cylinder group. Now I've just sent my trigger sear and spring sear to be fabricated in steel. Just a little precaution I guess

Hey guys , just a small update. I've also gotten my sear , sear pin and spring guide stopper custom machined in steel.
The spring guide stopper will hopefully withstand heavier springs.*
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...in/null-15.jpg

The stock sear and sear pin had a lot of play , so much so that u can even see it from the gap between the pin and sear in the pic. The custom sear has absolutely no play.*
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...in/null-14.jpg

I'm looking forward to testing these new bits when I get back from work next week.*

That is a zero trigger kit.
And apparently VERY similar to a VSR-10 trigger kit.
Maybe someone finally decided to make a real upgrade kit for that gun.
If it's the case, both the guns and trigger kits will sell like hot pies.

Rear spring is the trigger return spring, front spring is the sear/carrier return spring.

Hi Irfanzain, thanks for the pictures.
For mine, I have replaced the piston and cylinder set with the TX spring bolt upgrade,
but I keep the original/stock spring, as it is less powerful.
Now I feel that it's sturdier with louder click sound, when the piston is engaged.
It shoots the same around 360fps.

After looking at your pictures, it seems that your stock sears only have scratch/paint wear,
but no indication of micro crack or brittleness.
I have no plan to CNC them yet, as they seems they can withstand longer.
Do you think that the stock sear and pin made of pot metal ?
If it breaks, then probably I will ask Ares to send me a new one, as they already promise.

Just wondering, I notice that you are located in Singapore. As far as I know, owning airsoft gun is illegal there right ?

Hi Tanaya, ur quite right about Singapore. I actually work here and head back to Malaysia for gaming. Not exactly legal there too... But it's there. There's really a lot of play between the pin and sear, so I don't think itll take very long before it breaks or slam fires. My guess is that it's pot metal. I guess getting the tx upgrade but using the stock spring would probably work without wearing down the trigger assembly too much.

Right now I'm trying to fabricate a muzzle adapter that fits 14mm CW/CCW so I can fit a suppressor. Apparently the only suppressor that'll fit it right out of the box is the real steel AAC .338 suppressor.

I've got something new from my slamfiring problem.
It's not only about the pot metal parts of the trigger it also could be a problem with the piston (including the upgrade piston).
At the piston there are two white plastic rings, the rear of them is pushing the seer into the holding position.
My problem was that this plastic was scratched and it doesn't gave the holding position to the seer.
To rotate the piston solved this ... for the moment.
Question to you is the scratched plastic only caused by the bad quality of the pot metal parts?

Could u take some pics of the damaged piston?